How to start

[Vinny]

I bought a German set or ER-32, haven't been disappointed. All of the ER-32 collet chucks I have are chinese tho. I have 1 div or less movement on a 0.0005" DTI on all of them.

[the penguin]

I've bought 3 sets of ER 32 collets from BangGood, Two fractional and one metric, so far they are great, the ones I've checked, had very minimal run out, less than I can measure.

I bought my R8 x ER 32 collet chuck from LMS, on sale for about $60, its fabulous. I did drill a 3/16" hole in the side, so I could hold the collet chuck, with a pin wrench and tighten the nut with the supplied wrench, putting the wrenches next to each other, easier for me to tighten/loosen.

[Nikon1975]

It started...

   

Open on suggestions for tutorial books or videos for complete beginners.

Thanks,

D.

[Dr Stan]

Lots of videos on YouTube. Tom's Techniques are some of the best.

For a book, download the pdf of the US Navy's Machinery Repairman 3 and 2

[EdK]

(03-23-2018, 09:18 AM)Dr Stan Wrote: Lots of videos on YouTube. Tom's Techniques are some of the best.

....

Yup, that's certainly one of the better sources of tutorial videos.

Tom's Techniques

Ed

[Nikon1975]

Presently in the process to put together an essential tool kit to start practicing.

I still could not make up my mind on surface milling and finishing. I understand that the options are:
1) Fly cutters
2) Face mills

Fly cutters look cheaper, but I understand you also need a grinder to take care of the blades.
An indexed face mill, looks more expensive, but I have the feeling it might create less problem for a beginner. From what I read, if I had to pick one, I should go for a 45 degrees. Not sure if the arbours for these are standard, or each brand has his own.

What's your take in the matter ?

Thanks,

Davide

[TomG]

As a beginner, I would recommend avoiding carbide. It is expensive, unforgiving and generally intended for larger, more powerful machinery. A fly cutter and a few high speed steel bits would be the way to go. Hand sharpening is a skill you will want to learn anyway and there are plenty of videos on my Youtube page and information on my website to steer you in the right direction.

A few basic things you will need for the mill are:

•  A dial test indicator to align the vise to the table
  
• An edge finder to locate the edges of parts
  
• A small solid square for squaring up stock
  
• An assortment of small end mills, four-flute for steel and two-flute for non-ferrous metals, plus collets to hold them
  
• A set of thin parallels
  
• Digital calipers
  
• A drill chuck and a set of twist drills
  
• A calculator to figure proper rpm for the end mills, to keep from killing them
  

You should be able to do a lot of damage with this list and add to it as you gain experience and your bank account allows.

Tom

[Nikon1975]

Thanks,

I have almost everything. Only thing missing are the edge and center finder and the parallel. Both are on the shopping list.
I also came to the conclusion the HSS would be more forgiving.

Can I ask why you would not recommend to have a something like in the picture for the finishing ? I think the blades can still be in HSS.

Otherwise I have to add to the list the fly cutter holder, the biased and a grinder.

Additionally, I will probably be in US in the near future. Do you know any good place to shop tools around Oak Ridge, or recommended web shop to order from ?

Thanks,

Davide

[TomG]

Davide,

A multi insert face mill will likely chatter on a light bench mill like yours. They are better suited for larger, more rigid mills.

Check the links page on my website (Tomstechniques.com) for suppliers. A few that come to mind are Little Machine Shop, Shars and Travers.

Tom

[EdK]

(04-05-2018, 04:32 AM)Nikon1975 Wrote: Presently in the process to put together an essential tool kit to start practicing.

I still could not make up my mind on surface milling and finishing. I understand that the options are:
1) Fly cutters
2) Face mills

Fly cutters look cheaper, but I understand you also need a grinder to take care of the blades.
An indexed face mill, looks more expensive, but I have the feeling it might create less problem for a beginner. From what I read, if I had to pick one, I should go for a 45 degrees. Not sure if the arbours for these are standard, or each brand has his own.

What's your take in the matter ?

Thanks,

Davide

My take is to watch Tom's videos. Most of your questions would be answered.

Ed