Stock racks...what do you use?

[PixMan]

OK, now I understand.


That's the way the vertical rear upright, sloped front upright, and top bar is done.

[Mayhem]

Dave - that is the same way that I did it.

If you have odd sized stock kicking around you can still build it but I would at a minimum ensure the main frame is solid. This is the reason the diagonals are angle and not flat bar. You have a sheet metal break, so you could actually form the shelves like Ken's are and then you will not need to use angle for the front/back - that is about a 12' saving right there. You could also use smaller angle or even small box/tube for the dividers.

Ed - you will notice from Ken's pictures that the top rail is attached quite differently to mine. That is because I favour the notched joint over this one, as (I find) it is much easier to clamp everything square. At the end of the day there is more than one way to skin a cat...

[DaveH]

Thanks Ken, Darren.
Those pics help a lot I see it now.

I don't have a sheet metal brake so I will use angle 40 x 3 for the base and 30 x 3 for the rear horizontals and front.
 
DaveH

[Mayhem]

Didn't you build a sheet metal break for your hydraulic press?

[DaveH]

Darren,
Yep, but it is only capable of bending a maximum length of 500mm - that's the inside width of the frame of the press.
I have enough angle to do the main frame work of the storage rack now, just been and bought a 3 meter length of 40 x 3 angle saved a lot of messing about.
 
DaveH

[DaveH]

I don't wish to be picky (yes I do ) but those sloping upright angles are slightly skew, not much the thickness of the angle.
So I will butt weld the vertical uprights to the base. Still means the shelf supports (the outer ones) will need to be notched. I think this is how you did it Darren?
 
DaveH

[Mayhem]

Dave - you could notch the shelf support / divider so it maintains the same line as the diagonal (below left)but given that this is not a critical component, I wouldn't worry.

Given that you (like me) are going to be welding a front angle for each shelf, the simplest thing to do would be to weld this in first and then simply square the shelf support off of the rear upright (below right).  The front rail is welded to the diagonal so the small gap between the shelf support and the diagonal isn't an issue.  

[DaveH]

Darren,
I've not ignored you I'm still thinking.
The frame is sorted using the 40 x3 angle iron. I've been seeing what square tubing I have in the 25mm and 32mm all of it is 2mm wall thickness. So I want to see if I can use some of this up but not to make a mess of it. At the end of the day I want it to look reasonable.
So if I use it for the self supports then it must be all 25mm or 32mm not some 25mm and some 32mm.
 
DaveH

[EdK]

(04-30-2015, 08:18 AM)DaveH Wrote: I don't wish to be picky (yes I do ) but those sloping upright angles are slightly skew, not much the thickness of the angle.
So I will butt weld the vertical uprights to the base. Still means the shelf supports (the outer ones) will need to be notched. I think this is how you did it Darren?
 
DaveH

Put some steel shims the thickness of the angle iron between the sloping uprights and the shelf supports and weld them in along with the uprights. No notching needed. Or do what Darren said and not worry about the small gap.

Ed

[DaveH]

(04-30-2015, 06:04 PM)EdK Wrote: Put some steel shims the thickness of the angle iron between the sloping uprights and the shelf supports and weld them in along with the uprights. No notching needed. Or do what Darren said and not worry about the small gap.  

Ed

Using steel shims is a good idea, I have done that in the past, trouble is with my crap welding it doesn't always look too good By the time I have ground it down and re-welded it a number of times it then decides to warp   Great fun this welding lark.

DaveH