Stock racks...what do you use?

[Mayhem]

Given the height of the rack and the angle of lean, you would be hard pressed to tip it over. In fact, the centre of gravity would remain in front of the upright. However, two M8 masonry bolts through the front edge would be more than enough to secure it.

[DaveH]

Thanks Darren, - do you think you will be storing 3 meter lengths in your rack?
 
DaveH

[DaveH]

This sketch shows why I can't have it next to the wall.
There is no ceiling as such the ceiling is the underside of the roof.
The thick black line is some metal 3000mm long (10ft).

   

Do you think I should make the rack slightly higher and wider - keeping the same proportions?


DaveH

[Mayhem]

I have one 3m length of ø12.7mm ground 4140 and a 2m length of ø30mm 4140 just eager to get into the rack. Problem is that the 1.8m of the ø12.7mm stock is going to become drawbars in the not too distant future

My plan is to use this rack primarily for machining stock. Angle and box section will live elsewhere, so at present, it will look pretty sparse, with mainly the shelves getting some use. I need Russ to expand his business and open a shop in Perth...

You could always extend just the two outside uprights but honestly I don't think you will need to. Look at your drawing, the centre of gravity is pretty much straight down through the centre of the base.

You could always push it up against the grey wall

[DaveH]

(04-28-2015, 08:13 AM)Mayhem Wrote: Look at your drawing, the centre of gravity is pretty much straight down through the centre of the base.

That's true.

DaveH

[EdK]

(04-27-2015, 07:42 PM)Mayhem Wrote: Ed - here is a picture from Google showing a notched angle ready for welding:

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236...7a4cc0.jpg

I think these are also referred to as copes.

That helps. I was wondering if you mitered the joints so that picture clears that up.

Ed

[Mayhem]

Ed - they say a picture is worth a thousand words

The main frame (the 83" x 39" rectangle) is constructed this way.  Cut the two vertical lengths to 83" and then the five horizontal lengths to 39" minus 2x the gauge of the angle being used.  Thus, when welded together, you get the 83" x 39" dimension.  Start with the outer four lengths to ensure that the frame is square, then add in the other three.

Next comes the base, which the drawing shows as being 24"  This needs to be 24" minus the width of the angle.  The reason being is that you can use a butt weld to join this piece to the main frame.  The other ends accepts a length of 39" angle (notched as above), which forms the front of the base.

Once you are happy that everything is square, you can stand it upright and weld the two 84+" diagonal lengths into place.  These are lap joints and these sit on the outside of the frame.  This should be pretty clear from both Ken's drawing (look at the side view) and both of our photos.  I'm not really sure how to describe it better.

Next, cut the lengths that divide the rack into three sections and provide support for the shelves.  These are easy, as they simply sit beneath the horizontal lengths.  On the outside ones, I welded them to both the horizontal and the diagonal.  It means they splay out the width of the gauge of angle used (as the diagonal sits outside the frame) but it looks fine and adds rigidity.  If you wanted a perfect solution, you would notch the outside pieces, so that vertical side sat flush to the outside of the frame but this is a stock rack and I didn't see the need to be that fussy.

Finally, I added the horizontal lengths to form the front of the shelves, which are welded to both the diagonal lengths and the dividers.  These will be slightly longer than 39", as the diagonals sit outside the frame, so measure the width and cut accordingly (they should be 39" + 2x the gauge of the steel being used but just measure it be safe).  

As you can see from my picture, I have done this before going back and welding in the inside two dividers.  This is because it gives you two points at which to clamp them for welding.  The picture shows the top shelf section finished but the others needing completion.

I will get better pictures when I can but this should help in planing yours and it will serve as a reminder to me of what to take pictures of.  I'll also give you the lengths of the dividers (will be in mm though).

[EdK]

That helps immensely Darren.

Ed

[EdK]

Darren,

This is the upper left corner of the back rectangle. The orange, horizontal top piece is coped into the the side upright. Does this look right?

Ed

   

[Mayhem]

That is how I did it Ed but there are two ways you can do it, which I will show below.

The way you have drawn (the way I did it) allows you to form both the outside corners of the frame as well as the inside joins.  A simpler approach can be used if you are only making a 90° corner.  This method is show in the image I linked to earlier.

   

Using the method I did, you need to cut out the corner of the angle, as well as one of the sides. Further, you need to radius the end of the remaining piece so that it would sit nicely inside the angle it was being joined to.  The image shows this better than I can describe it.

In the "simpler" option, you cut the notch wider by 1x the gauge and then you don't have to make any more cuts or radius the end.  You do have to remember to take the 2x the gauge off of the section it is joining to (blue hatched piece) when cutting your lengths and leave the notched piece the full length when using this method.

Given that the second method only works for when you are making a 90° corner, I went with the first method for all the notch joins, as I only had to calculate the length once and cut them all the same.

I guess it is your call on which approach you take