Posts: 3,003
Threads: 51
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Ontario
Yah just another revision to the original design Rob. Just hate the time spent polishing that first bore, though the photo doesn't make it look very good.
Hand held saws have a little piston pump that feeds oil continuously to the bar to reduce friction between the chain and bar where your cutting. Oregon (the manufacturer of the bar and chain) say a single shot at the beginning is fine for these. The first hand held saws had a manual pump oiler on them too.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Cheers for the reply Greg ,
Learned something new
, I feel for you , nothing worse that spending a lot of time on a part for it to fail,not work, not fit, been there may a time and I am dam sure I will be down that road again
lol . So whats the plan start honing out another cylinder ?
Rob
Posts: 3,003
Threads: 51
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Ontario
I think the only people who don't make mistakes lie or don't do anything Rob.
Redesigned and cut the O ring grove into the housings, where they should have been in the first place, was lazy and didn't want to grind a cutter.
Expect I'll need to make a new cylinder and piston.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
(05-16-2015, 11:58 AM)f350ca Wrote: I think the only people who don't make mistakes lie or don't do anything Rob.
Aye to right Greg ,,,,,,,,,,,,, they are called twats !, talk the talk but dont walk the walk .
Rob
Posts: 121
Threads: 4
Joined: Dec 2014
Location: Germany/Kandern
(05-16-2015, 11:58 AM)f350ca Wrote: I think the only people who don't make mistakes lie or don't do anything Rob.
Redesigned and cut the O ring grove into the housings, where they should have been in the first place, was lazy and didn't want to grind a cutter.
Expect I'll need to make a new cylinder and piston.
Why not weld the bottom to the cylinder and thread the top of the cylinder. Then you could make a round top on the lathe.
Posts: 3,003
Threads: 51
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Ontario
Managed to use an aluminum lower housing, stainless cylinder, and steel top. Tough welding. Would have to weld it before boring to control the warpage, then its a bugger to hone a blind hole, doable but.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Posts: 121
Threads: 4
Joined: Dec 2014
Location: Germany/Kandern
(05-16-2015, 04:27 PM)f350ca Wrote: Managed to use an aluminum lower housing, stainless cylinder, and steel top. Tough welding. Would have to weld it before boring to control the warpage, then its a bugger to hone a blind hole, doable but.
Oh, I didn't realize that you guys in North America hadn't learned yet how to weld aluminum to stainless steel!
Posts: 691
Threads: 14
Joined: Feb 2015
Location: Oakland, California
I'm sure LocTite has a product for that.
Posts: 218
Threads: 9
Joined: Dec 2014
Location: Bristol Ct. USA
Just getting back and catching up here. Fantastic work Greg.
"Billy G"
Posts: 121
Threads: 4
Joined: Dec 2014
Location: Germany/Kandern
06-07-2015, 01:26 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-07-2015, 01:27 PM by Black Forest.)
OK, it is time for you to get back on this project. Forget that boat.
Or are you still trying to perfect your welding skills! Alu to SS that is. Keep at it you will get there.
