Auto Hoist
#21
You (and all your friends and neighbors) will enjoy that Greg. Good move.Thumbsup
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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#22
Wow! 1450lbs in the truck? Have you got extra leaves in the springs?

Looking forward to a few pics of the assembly, and of course some narrative expletives are fine.

My son is looking at this posting also as he is in the market for a hoist to replace his drive-on 4 poster.
sasquatch, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Jul 2012.
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#23
Was a little surprised at how well the truck hauled it. Arranged the load to get as much weight on the front axle as I could, 9 foot beams and a 6 foot box doesn't help. Good thing I checked the tires before I left though, they looked fine but only had 20 psi, sure didn't ride as nice with 40. The first four lane I hit was the 407 in Toronto. It has a concrete surface, the ripple in it would set up a harmonic and get the truck bouncing at 100 kph, had me thinking it was going to be a slow drive, as soon as I got on asphalt though it smoothed out and 120 was fine.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#24
Wow, nice Thumbsup
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DaveH
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#25
Got the offending material removed from the columns. Cut out about 2 1/2 inches, rather than grind away the welds I simply cut out the length needed and butt welded it back together.

[Image: IMG_0309.jpg]

[Image: IMG_0305.jpg]

Standing roughly where they belong, now the crane goes over them.

[Image: IMG_0308.jpg]

Will see if I can get them bolted down tomorrow. Ordered the epoxy for the concrete anchors, need to rent a Hilti drill, 3/4 holes are a little much for my small hammer drill.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#26
Greg is this the 8000 lb model?

Also, has this model got the cross bar across the top i see in their site? What do you have for ceiling height?
sasquatch, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun since Jul 2012.
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#27
Ya this is the 8000 lb one, should be heavy enough for what I own and anything I'll be getting, also means I shouldn't lift other peoples older trucks.
This one has a floor plate to protect the cables and hydraulic line. The overhead one would be nice for floor area but would stop me travelling the crane to the ends of the shop.
10 foot ceilings so I won't be able to take the vehicles as high as I'd like but a whole lot higher than I can get with jack stands now.
Just noticed the dog managed to get in 2 of the 3 photos, no surprise, had to throw a ball every time I went to cut to get her out of the way.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#28
Greg, did you check out the position of the vehicle when it's in lifting position? Reason I ask is, I found that if I drove the vehicle in (over the "floor plate") I found I couldn't open the doors enough to get out. I had to drive in just over the bump, leave it in neutral, get out and then push the vehicle ahead to position for lifting. It was a bit of a pain especially with some automatics that won't let you leave it in neutral and turn off the ignition.
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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#29
(11-06-2012, 10:09 PM)f350ca Wrote: Just noticed the dog managed to get in 2 of the 3 photos, no surprise, had to throw a ball every time I went to cut to get her out of the way.
Some one needs to keep an eye on you Thumbsup Rotfl
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DaveH
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#30
Steve
Good question, how do you decide where to position it to lift? The arms extend as well as swing so I'm guessing you have some for/aft leeway as to where you park, the truck is front heavy but the jeep is pretty much balanced.
Dave she seems to make it her full time job, but I'm not sure if she thinks her job is to keep an eye on me or torment.

This mornings job is to determine the side ways position. I'd like to get the one post tight to the wall to gain more room at the end of the lathe (which sticks out into this bay), but they want the anchors at least 6 inches from the edge of the concrete (with 4 inches of 3000 psi cement). That position would put them about an inch away, also have the heat pipes in the floor to avoid. This concrete is I believe 30 mpa (4300psi) with fibreglass chop and 6 inches thick so I'm hoping I can crowd it a little to the edge.
I have a photo of the heat pipes before the floor was poured so have a fairly good idea where they lay. The floor heat isn't on right now, so if I start it up, in a few minutes I can measure the hot spots with a infrared heat gun, to confirm I'm not going to hit water when I drill.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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