Posts: 3,798
Threads: 184
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Farmington Hills, Michigan
(09-24-2012, 12:31 PM)Rickabilly Wrote: Hello Tom,
I know you've had the Hardinge for quite a while, have you ever removed the wipers to clean it before? and what kind of wipers are they? sounds like hard plastic blocks from what you have just posted, have you ever used compressed air to clean the ways?
Sorry about the Spanish inquisition.
I just assumed that the Hardinge would have double lip wipers as these really are stand out performers in my experience, On the upside the oiling system will usually flush any muck out of the important bits, so nothing to worry about really.
And the urethane Foam sounds like an excellent choice, Felt for the modern day really isn't it? it'd be better if it had teflon content, if you have the capacity and/or the inclination check out Goretex ptfe self adhesive foam strip, it comes on a roll, in various sizes, we used 3mm x 12mm for steam jointing, it was nice and slippery as well as super tough but nice and springy, Actually I am considering trying to find some for my machines now that I've remembered the stuff.
Rick
Hey Rick,
No, I've never had them off. They looked fine from the outside so I never thought to check.
Compressed air is a major no no around precision machinery and it never gets used around mine other than to blow the chips off parts.
There are no lips at all on the wipers, just a square edge about 1/4" thick. They are injection molded out of some sort of black plastic about the same durometer of vinyl. It must be a thermoplastic because the hot chips tend to stick to it.
Tom
Posts: 537
Threads: 15
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Cambridge, England
Thanks for the quick reply Tom, as far as wipers go they actually sound quite nasty, I did not expect that, I agree with you totally with respect to the compressed air around precision machinery, but so many folks just don't know that, I figure Hardinge were relying on the flushing action of the regular lubrication so safeguard against dirt ingress into the friction zone.
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
Posts: 3,798
Threads: 184
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Farmington Hills, Michigan
Rick,
The wiper on the headstock side was much better. Apparently the problem with the one on the tailstock side resulted from years of chips being crammed against the wiper by the tailstock. I'm still going to redesign it though. There's something inherently wrong with using a plastic part in such a harsh environment.
Tom
Posts: 537
Threads: 15
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Cambridge, England
It's one of those areas where there really is no correct answer, I have seen spring loaded sliding graphite blade type wipers on mining equipment,, teflon could work better, but I suppose there is no substitute for a regular clean out.
What sort of design do you have in mind?
Regards
Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
Posts: 3,798
Threads: 184
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Farmington Hills, Michigan
Rick,
I'm thinking an aluminum frame with a rabbet on the inside to trap and slightly compress an elastomer seal. O-Ring cord stock is available in a square cross section so that would be my first choice if I could find something in a lower durometer that is oil resistant. There are also Buna-N foams available in strip form that might be good candidates.
Tom
Posts: 3,003
Threads: 51
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Ontario
Would the rubber used in a windshield wiper blade be oil resistant?
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Posts: 8,863
Threads: 319
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
(09-25-2012, 08:07 AM)TomG Wrote: Rick,
I'm thinking an aluminum frame with a rabbet on the inside to trap and slightly compress an elastomer seal. O-Ring cord stock is available in a square cross section so that would be my first choice if I could find something in a lower durometer that is oil resistant. There are also Buna-N foams available in strip form that might be good candidates.
Tom
Tom,
McMaster has a bunch of types of rubber and foam.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rubber-sheets/=jg2vn8
Ed
Posts: 3,798
Threads: 184
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Farmington Hills, Michigan
(09-25-2012, 10:23 AM)EdK Wrote: (09-25-2012, 08:07 AM)TomG Wrote: Rick,
I'm thinking an aluminum frame with a rabbet on the inside to trap and slightly compress an elastomer seal. O-Ring cord stock is available in a square cross section so that would be my first choice if I could find something in a lower durometer that is oil resistant. There are also Buna-N foams available in strip form that might be good candidates.
Tom
Tom,
McMaster has a bunch of types of rubber and foam.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rubber-sheets/=jg2vn8
Ed
Thanks Ed.
MC and I are on a first name basis. They even send me catalogs at home.
They are a bit pricey, but they literally have everything and can get it in your hands the next day at no extra charge.
Tom
Posts: 8,863
Threads: 319
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
The only thing I've found them to be a bit skimpy on is bearings. Not a lot to choose from. They do have a lot of stuff though and I've only had to return one item because of a quality issue. You don't even need to get an RMA number to return something.
Ed
Posts: 2,685
Threads: 29
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
09-25-2012, 12:18 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-25-2012, 12:19 PM by stevec.)
Bearings, can usually be had locally from drive component outlets like Motion Industries and others. And, surprisingly, I've never been treated like the pain in the A$$ I can be. I mean as in a "one or two of" customer.
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
|