Todays Project - What did you do today?

[Mayhem]

(12-22-2016, 08:21 AM)rleete Wrote: ...I have used antlers in the past, but the smell keeps me from using them very often...

If it is anything like smell you get when the bone saw is in use in the operating theatre, I'm with you. That is certainly an interesting smell.

[f350ca]

(12-22-2016, 08:21 AM)rleete Wrote:

(12-21-2016, 05:36 PM)350ca Wrote: Following along with Canadian content EH, from canoes to Canadian Ivory.
A Christmas fountain pen for Julia made from deer antler. 

I have used antlers in the past, but the smell keeps me from using them very often.

What kind of finish did you use?  Is it a typical friction polish?

Also, have you ever had problems with the antler splitting over time?  About half of those I have made have split, and that's with dried antler.

This was the first time I tried using one. I expected an awful smell but there was none. These were a drop that a friend found and had hanging on a west facing shed wall, then sat for several years in the house. Maybe being a shed makes a difference.
Used a knife edge HSS tool, at a fairly high rpm. That gave a smooth finish, touched it with 600 grit paper then with it spinning rubbed a brown polishing compound stick against it and buffed it with a rag, nothing special at all. 
Time will tell if it splits I guess.

Thanks for the info, this may truly be a one of.

[aRM]

(12-22-2016, 04:15 AM)Mike E. Wrote: To remove corrosion from Brass, try "Apple Cider Vinegar". Immerse the item for several hours and you will be amazed at the results also.

Another tip.  "Lacquer Thinner" used as a cutting fluid is excellent when tapping aluminium, leaving clean sharp threads; this works especially well for smaller taps, such as 2-56 as an example.

Hello Mike
Will try that "Apple Cider" on Brass. Good Tip
Been using Liquid Paraffin, what U Guys call Kerosene, for Turning Al. Leaves a beautiful finish.
Will try those Thinners for Tapping though. Like Petrol I like the smell, so it would be good for me to work with !!!
Thanks for responding and sharing. Much appreciated.
LORD Bless
aRM

[aRM]

(12-22-2016, 08:21 AM)rleete Wrote: Also, have you ever had problems with the antler splitting over time?  About half of those I have made have split, and that's with dried antler.

Hi Greg
If I may chime in, we found that using Cyanoacrylate, gosh that's a mouthful, the very liquidy version of "Super Glue" liberally all over the piece, before the final finish, helps to bond the Ivory, Giraffe Bone, Horn, non-Stabilised Woods, and even Antler and stop it from future cracking/splitting.
This liquidy runny version is perfect as it enters and bonds all cracks, pores etc.
It's like a form of "Stabilising" but without the Vacuum process.
In fact there's a fine craftsman in the States, Scott Slobodian, if I recall correctly, who only uses this glue completely over his fancy Knife Handles, and the finish is only to drool over. Absolutely classical and Beautiful.
aRM

[EdK]

(12-22-2016, 10:17 AM)aRM Wrote: we found that using Cyanoacrylate, gosh that's a mouthful, the very liquidy version of "Super Glue" liberally all over the piece, before the final finish, helps to bond the Ivory, Giraffe Bone, Horn, non-Stabilised Woods, and even Antler and stop it from future cracking/splitting.

I used to turn a lot of pens and what aRM says is true. Super glue helps stabilize the material. You do the same thing with burl wood.  

Ed

[Vinny]

I've seen a number of wood turning videos that advocate using a wax and mineral oil mixture after the final turning both protects it from cracking and splitting and giving it a nice shine. I haven't tried it but I mixed up some for the neighbor and the peppermills he made and finished with it came out beautiful.

[EdK]

I mostly used shellac for finishing pens because it works on oily woods like cocobolo. Most other finishes won't cure very well unless you seal the oils in with dewaxed shellac.

Ed

[TomG]

(12-21-2016, 10:20 PM)pepi Wrote: A question, other than the expense & holding power of a 6 jaw chuck are there other advantages to know about?

Greg

Greg,

Not sure I'd include expense as an advantage, but six jaws does offer a number of benefits over three. Probably the biggest is concentricity. When you chuck a machined cylinder, it run much more true than in a three jaw chuck, axially and radially. Another advantage is that since there are twice as many jaws, they put half as much force on the part. That makes for fewer marks and less distortion, especially on thin wall parts. I've also seen (and witnessed ) parts "cam out" of three jaw chucks, and that can't happen on a six jaw.

Tom

[EdK]

Tom,

Can you explain what "cam out" means in regards to the 3-jaw chuck?

Thanks,
Ed

[TomG]

If a part is chucked short in a 3-jaw and you take too heavy a cut, it will rock out of the chuck between two jaws. Six-jaws are less apt to do that because there is less space between the jaws.

Tom