Todays Project - What did you do today?

[Mayhem]

(12-21-2016, 10:20 PM)pepi Wrote: ...A question, other than the expense & holding power of a 6 jaw chuck are there other advantages to know about?...

One would be the ability to hold thin wall tube with less risk of crushing it. I'm sure there are others.

[aRM]

(12-21-2016, 08:08 PM)Mayhem Wrote:

(12-21-2016, 05:00 PM)aRM Wrote: ...After a couple of days of soaking we wire-brushed the piece under running water and the thick crud over years of build-up, literally scrubbed off...

I would have just 'de-rusted' that in the lathe whilst making the part.  If it is just going to end up in the swarf bin I wouldn't waste the time cleaning it.  Of course, if it is something that you don't need to, or cannot machine, then I would put in the effort.

Hi Darren
Did that many times before.
Just can't stand the gunk and mess that ends up in my lathe. I use coolant as well whilst doing parting etc. and that combined with all this rusty, muddy-swarf from the turning made a recipe for disaster which eventually forced me to empty the Coolant Tank and clean the whole bloody thing. That was a real pita. ~!@#$%^&*(
Learnt the hard way, clean the stock and work tidy. I am a bit of a fuss pot and like working neat, when ever possible.
Guess it's each unto his own.
Trust you understand
aRM

[f350ca]

(12-21-2016, 10:32 PM)Vinny Wrote:

(12-21-2016, 08:50 PM)f350ca Wrote: Another Christmas present. Charlie has been using the wood lathe quite a bit making bowls, had some 5/8 round carbide inserts so made up a scraper for him. Cherry handle with a 1 1/4 copper pipe furl, the body was a rusty chunk of 1/2 inch square, again the surface grinder came through.

Love it!  Interestingly enough, I made one of these for me and one for my neighbor - he does more wood turning than I do.  He uses it more than any other turning tool he has, after that is his parting tool.  The rest need to be dusted off when he needs them!

Glad to hear that Vinny. These inserts seam quite sharp, hope they work well have a package of 5, with revolving them they should last a long time. Lee Valley has a very similar tool but they want something like $170 for it.

[Mayhem]

(12-21-2016, 11:02 PM)aRM Wrote: ...I am a bit of a fuss pot and like working neat, when ever possible...
Trust you understand
aRM

You and Ed share a lot in common

[Dr Stan]

(12-21-2016, 10:20 PM)pepi Wrote: Mounted the 4 jaw chuck, and went to school indicating a work piece. Watched a couple of videos before attempting the dance. Using two chuck keys machinist make it look like a no brainier.

Made a few feeble attempts to copy the moves, going around the chuck (laughing @ myself) in circles. Started to understand the concept, and developed my own routine using a single chuck key.  

Came together nicely, I'll go back a few times just to indicate some different size and shape of bar. I like the 4 jaw and the goal is to use it most of the time.

A question, other than the expense & holding power of a 6 jaw chuck are there other advantages to know about?

Greg

One aspect of a 4 jaw is that it holds a part/bar stock much more rigid than a 3 jaw.

Typically I'll start by aligning the 4 jaws equally by eye to one of the rings cut in the face of a 4 jaw.  Scale the part/bar stock and adjust two adjacent jaws 1/2 the difference.  Put the part/stock in then run in the other jaws so they are snug.

Set up a dial indicator and check 4 points corresponding to the jaws.  Tighten high and loosen low.  Make small adjustments until you've got it within .010" TRI or so.  Then start tightening OR loosening opposing jaws watching your adjustment by the movement of the indicator.  You'll be finished before you know it.

BTW, this is also a good technique if you have an out-of-round part or material.  Get jaws 1 and 3 as close to each other as possible.  The same for jaws 2 & 4.  You may need to work back & forth between the two sets of jaws.

I have a 8" Buck 6 jaw and love it.  It's the most accurate single adjustment point chuck I've ever used.  If you're doing a short run it can be adjusted for the exact diameter/hex of your bar stock to run with minimal run out.  It's stable mates are a 12" and 6" four jawed chucks, a 6" 3 jaw (also used on the RT and the indexer for the mill) and a collet chuck.

[Mike E.]

(12-21-2016, 05:00 PM)aRM Wrote: Hey Guys........VINEGAR Works  !!!
Tried Mr Pete 22222's method of Rust Removal and Man, does it work  
All that's required is ordinary household White Spirit Vinegar. This maybe old hat to most of You, but ironically, we had just spent nearly Four Hundred Bucks on an almost Half-a-Gallon can of EVAPORUST (to do the same thing), some days earlier.
The simple method here required Mr Patience to accompany Nephew Elbow Grease, and Bob's Your Uncle !!!  Jobs done fantastically.
Eyeball the after cleaned-up piece in the background of the pic.  Should have had a before pic.
After a couple of days of soaking we wire-brushed the piece under running water and the thick crud over years of build-up, literally scrubbed off.
The effects of heavy pitting are still visible on the piece.
What was most enjoyable and pleasurable in this whole exercise was bringing that rusty crusty dirty old piece of iron back to dimensioned, useful, purposeful gleaming life in a Tool.  
The end results are obvious.  The amazing part was that the turning required little or no polishing at all.    
So next time, don't disregard or write-off that rusty crusty chunk of junk.
You have the ability to transform it into a useful gleaming Tool for posterity.
Just my two cents Guys
Thanks for allowing me an opportunity to share
aRM

To remove corrosion from Brass, try "Apple Cider Vinegar". Immerse the item for several hours and you will be amazed at the results also.

Another tip.  "Lacquer Thinner" used as a cutting fluid is excellent when tapping aluminium, leaving clean sharp threads; this works especially well for smaller taps, such as 2-56 as an example.

[EdK]

(12-21-2016, 11:23 PM)Mayhem Wrote:

(12-21-2016, 11:02 PM)aRM Wrote: ...I am a bit of a fuss pot and like working neat, when ever possible...
Trust you understand
aRM

You and Ed share a lot in common

Hey, I resemble that.

Ed

[Vinny]

(12-21-2016, 11:23 PM)f350ca Wrote: [Glad to hear that Vinny. These inserts seam quite sharp, hope they work well have a package of 5, with revolving them they should last a long time. Lee Valley has a very similar tool but they want something like $170 for it.

Not even a problem with an interrupted cut. What's nice about the round inserts is they have many sides. Gets dull or chips and all it takes is a slight rotation.

[pepi]

(12-21-2016, 11:01 PM)Mayhem Wrote:

(12-21-2016, 10:20 PM)pepi Wrote: ...A question, other than the expense & holding power of a 6 jaw chuck are there other advantages to know about?...

One would be the ability to hold thin wall tube with less risk of crushing it.  I'm sure there are others.

Good point and understand that, after asking the question, looked into them a bit further. Discovered they scroll, had it in my head the jaws were independent...

Amazing what a bit of reading does  LOL


 It would take more than ability to turn thin walled tubing to justify the expense for me. Not seeing much of that in my future.

I'll pocket the $ for now and use it for tooling.

Thanks

Greg

[rleete]

(12-21-2016, 05:36 PM)350ca Wrote: Following along with Canadian content EH, from canoes to Canadian Ivory.
A Christmas fountain pen for Julia made from deer antler. 

I have used antlers in the past, but the smell keeps me from using them very often.

What kind of finish did you use?  Is it a typical friction polish?

Also, have you ever had problems with the antler splitting over time?  About half of those I have made have split, and that's with dried antler.