cutting gears

[EdK]

(07-03-2012, 08:56 AM)Sunset Machine Wrote: The only problem I'm having is that it must run from the installed directory. The docs said to put it anywhere convenient, but it can't find its files. In other words, a desktop link doesn't work. ver1.1.4

A desktop shortcut works for me. Just right-click on the ShopCalc.exe file and select "Send To" and select "Desktop".

Ed

[dallen]

thanks for all the help on the shop calculator, that file fixed is so that the program opens and works now.

DA

[Sunset Machine]

(07-03-2012, 09:27 AM)EdK Wrote:

(07-03-2012, 08:56 AM)Sunset Machine Wrote: In other words, a desktop link doesn't work. ver1.1.4

A desktop shortcut works for me. Just right-click on the ShopCalc.exe file and select "Send To" and select "Desktop".

Cross-platform differences, I suppose. It makes two new files on the Desktop, says it can't find the language files and then segfaults. Ouch! It's not looking at where it lives and I don't see any way to set a path in a config file. ver 1.1.4 - Linux

Other than that, it works just fine.

[EdK]

(07-03-2012, 12:14 PM)Sunset Machine Wrote: Cross-platform differences, I suppose. It makes two new files on the Desktop, says it can't find the language files and then segfaults. Ouch! It's not looking at where it lives and I don't see any way to set a path in a config file. ver 1.1.4 - Linux

Other than that, it works just fine.

Linux is the difference then. I'm not versed in Linux enough to solve the problem on that platform.

Ed

[dallen]

The Calculator works great but doesn't work with a Grizzly Rotary Table I came to find out.
Anyway I have the book for the rotary table so I was able to calculate the number of turns that I needed to cut a 30 tooth DP18 14.5 gear. And I made a couple of mistakes, #1 was not having enough material sticking out of the jaws of the chuck on the table so some of the teeth I wasn't able to cut full length, #2 was missing a turn instead of turning the crank 3 turns on one move I only went 2 turns and well it really messes up you tooth pattern.

Anyway heres a couple pictures

       

[Mayhem]

Chalk it up to a learning experience - probably not what you want to hear but it seems that you have it all figured out and well on your way now.

[dallen]

the only way to learn is to make some mistakes, and I figure that I'll make a bunch of em with this.

ordered me up a couple tapered mandrels today so that will help get the work away from the indexer when I use it.

[Sunset Machine]

How'd you do for precision? Caliper across a few teeth in several places..

Lots of advantages doing these between centers. There's even a "re-do" possible, the drive dog is somewhat adjustable (opposing screws) and using it will enable you to remount the blank and recut teeth a little deeper if need be. Especially handy for recutting teeth damaged by another gear, or fixing broken teeth. I generally use a 1" x 6" round bar as an arbor, turned, centered and threaded to fit, preferring a shoulder for the blank to rest against and a large nut to hold 'er good.

[dallen]

(07-07-2012, 10:43 AM)Sunset Machine Wrote: How'd you do for precision? Caliper across a few teeth in several places..

Lots of advantages doing these between centers. There's even a "re-do" possible, the drive dog is somewhat adjustable (opposing screws) and using it will enable you to remount the blank and recut teeth a little deeper if need be. Especially handy for recutting teeth damaged by another gear, or fixing broken teeth. I generally use a 1" x 6" round bar as an arbor, turned, centered and threaded to fit, preferring a shoulder for the blank to rest against and a large nut to hold 'er good.

I didn't check to see if they came out right due to noticing that I was cutting them about a 80 thousands off of center.

I would make arbors that way but my lathe has a habit of cutting a slight taper which I have as yet get adjusted out, but the thing was made like 20 years ago in China and was treated really bad before I got it, hoping to get a new one pretty soon. But I do have a couple tapered arbors ordered that will be here in a couple days.

any hints, or tips that will help keep me on the straight and narrow of gear cutting will be listened

[Sunset Machine]

That is a bit much, but I don't know if it's that critical. Eyeballing the cutter to a center is close enough, although you're a bit out in the field at .080...

I've had bad luck with tapered arbors, the gear blanks are too narrow and tend to cock off to one side. The pressure/hammering of the cutter on the workpiece doesn't help. Better, I think, is to make a stepped arbor, and even your beat up lathe can make them. They force the blank to be square, up against a shoulder like that.

   
Threads are optional, a press fit if you want. I prefer using a nut though.