Quick Question Thread

[Vinny]

What are import fees and procedures like over there? Check out the LaserEverything Buying Guide. https://lasereverything.net/buyingguide/

[Dr Stan]

All the tools I shipped to the Philippines were duty free as they are classified as tradesman tools.

[Vinny]

What are you planning to do with it? If you're just talking about cutting and/or engraving wood, acrylic, glass, leather/leatherette and things like that, you're probably looking for a CO2. The only other type that would fit your table dimensions would be a diode laser but you're not going to get near 100 watts with that (some will advertise 80-100 or more watt diode, but in reality that's DC input, actual optical output for an 80 watt is around 10 watts). Fiber lasers will get that power, but the table will be smaller unless you rig something up. Again I would suggest the aforementioned buying guide. A CO2 laser that size will run anywhere from 2000-6000 USD. You'll also need a chiller (don't get the CW3000, it's not really a chiller), compressor for air assist and an exhaust. You'll also want passthru so you can put an even larger piece of material in it. If your environment is harsh (humid, salty, etc.) you'll want to control that. If it gets below freezing, you'll want to control that too or get a heater for the chiller and/or run a type of antifreeze in it.

[Dr Stan]

Looks like this one will fit my needs/wants and budget Ortur LM3 Laser Engraving & Cutting Machine

[Vinny]

It will cut some wood 6mm or less thick. Will remove the anodized finish on aluminum. I have an Ortur Aufero and I upgraded the laser to a 10W Optical (they call it an 80 watt). Make sure you get good air assist, not one of those aquarium pumps some mfgrs push, I use shop air with a water separator. That is a far cry from the 100 watts you were originally asking about.

[Dr Stan]

(02-22-2019, 11:36 PM)Clifford B. Wrote: Hey Doc. do you remember the 3M system ??
It went hand in hand with the PMS.
MRFA C.Brewer USS Ajax     79-81

Sorry for the delay. I do remember using it, but no longer remember the details.

[rleete]

Most of my machining to date has been aluminum and brass. Lately I have been using more steel of various grades. My question is in regard to cutting/tapping fluid. I mostly use WD-40 on aluminum and Tap Magic on everything else. But I'm running out and need to get more.

I was told that Anchorlube is superior to Tap Magic and decided to get the opinion of others first. One of these two, or something else altogether?

[arvidj]

I agree with the WD-40 for aluminum and have used Tap Magic for many years. BUT …

I recently saw a YouTube’r using Anchorlube (damn’d if I can remember which one) and decided to get a bottle and give it a try. I’ve not had a chance to use it yet but will be in the next few days. I’ll let you know, and try to remember where\who I saw using it. IIRC, it looked to be thicker than Tap Magic.

[EdK]

Anchorlube is great on stainless steel. Just be aware that it will stain some metals if it's not cleaned off in a reasonable amount of time. I have a bottle of it and only use it on SS.
Anchorlube is definitely thicker than Tap Magic. It's slightly runnier than a paste.

Ed

[Highpower]

(12-23-2024, 09:12 PM)EdK Wrote: Anchorlube is great on stainless steel. Just be aware that it will stain some metals if it's not cleaned off in a reasonable amount of time. I have a bottle of it and only use it on SS.
Anchorlube is definitely thicker than Tap Magic. It's slightly runnier than a paste.

Ed

I concur. However Anchorlube can be thinned with water (up to a 1:1 ratio) if you so desire as it is water based. Just don't let it freeze because it will separate and you'll have a devil of a time trying to get it mixed again. My only issue with using it straight out of the bottle is that it stays in place. Wherever it gets pushed to - that is where it stays unless you get it hot enough to melt. Not what I want to be doing most of the time. For example if you are drilling a deep hole it will get pushed up onto the flutes of the drill and stay there so the drill point ends up dry. Have to re-apply often to keep the lube where you need it. More 'liquid' lubes will run back down in the hole and not go to waste. At least that's been my experience. On the other hand it won't get flung off of a piece of stock in the lathe as much, staying where it is needed.

I have at least a half-dozen different types of cutting fluids/lubes since there isn't any one I've found that works on everything.