You are correct Steve but I think Andrew's point was that if the table is "level" then you can quickly set up work with a precision level and get it parallel to the table.
I don't think I would trust my eyecrometer to read the level well enough for precision work but for a non-critical surface or starting point it would be quick and easy.
12-27-2016, 11:02 AM (This post was last modified: 12-27-2016, 11:29 AM by awemawson.)
If you don't 'get it' then you don't need to do it, it's purely voluntary, but it makes life easier :)
I sometime use a gun laying clinometer to set angular work - it works out very accurate, which is not surprising when you think in the original application it let you drop a shell on a fox hole a mile away !
Andrew Mawson, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Oct 2013.
(12-27-2016, 10:26 AM)Mayhem Wrote: You are correct Steve but I think Andrew's point was that if the table is "level" then you can quickly set up work with a precision level and get it parallel to the table.
I don't think I would trust my eyecrometer to read the level well enough for precision work but for a non-critical surface or starting point it would be quick and easy.
Thanks for backing me, There are levels of expertise that far exceed mine ( and always will).
(12-27-2016, 11:02 AM)awemawson Wrote: ...I sometime use a gun laying clinometer to set angular work...
I'd like to see a photo if you have one.
(12-27-2016, 11:02 AM)awemawson Wrote: If you don't 'get it' then you don't need to do it, it's purely voluntary, but it makes life easier :)
I sometime use a gun laying clinometer to set angular work - it works out very accurate, which is not surprising when you think in the original application it let you drop a shell on a fox hole a mile away !
OK Here you go with photos of the four clinometers that I have. The ER Watts Field Clinometer is the one I use most, followed by the small angle one which only covers 0-10 degrees. The Hilger & Watts one is a proper workshop tool rather than a bit of military kit, and the Lucas Pendulum one I rarely use.
(The pictures never seem to stay in the order that I upload them, but I'm sure that you can see which is which easily enough.)
As I've said before, if the machine is dead nuts level, it makes their use simpler, but any one of them can work off an offset zero - it just slows things down, so if you REALLY hate the idea of getting your table level don't bother it's not compulsory - just use a saucer with your cup of tea
Andrew Mawson, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Oct 2013.
(12-28-2016, 04:57 AM)awemawson Wrote: (The pictures never seem to stay in the order that I upload them, but I'm sure that you can see which is which easily enough.)
Andrew,
Because you took the time to put meaningful names on the files it's easy to see what is what by simply moving the cursor over the images.
So over the last few days I re blacked some of the hardware and put the ram and ram adaptor on the machine.
My first time blackening anything. To be honest i didn't have to do this but this project is all about learning for me and i was curious about the process. However it does look nice once its done.
Had a few problems getting the ram adaptor to rotate through its full movement until i realised that I had the worm gear upside down. Unfortunately it took me a couple of goes of assembling and disassembling the adaptor to work this out so the paint work got a bit of a bashing.
Here is the ram finally on the turret with its newly blackened hardware.
Next up is the rebuild of the head itself. I imagine this will take me quite sometime.
