[PROJECT] Spin Indexer Tailstock

[f350ca]

(10-11-2014, 01:34 PM)EdK Wrote:

(10-11-2014, 12:27 PM)f350ca Wrote: A far more elegant way to do it Ed. A split cotter has amazing flaming properties.

Greg,

What does "amazing flaming properties" mean.

My best guess is you meant "amazing clamping properties".

Ed

Yep, got to like spell check

[EdK]

Got another piece done. This is the shaft for the cotter clamp.

Ed

   

[DaveH]

Ed,
That looks good - did it turn/cut well?
 
DaveH

[EdK]

(10-18-2014, 01:22 PM)DaveH Wrote: Ed,
That looks good - did it turn/cut well?
 
DaveH

Dave,

It's what we call O1 tool steel. I think it's called BS, bright steel, on that side of the pond. I have a tough time getting a decent finish on it but it turns better than 1018 CRS.

Ed

[dallen]

(10-18-2014, 01:29 PM)EdK Wrote: It's what we call O1 tool steel. I think it's called BS, bright steel, on that side of the pond. I have a tough time getting a decent finish on it but it turns better than 1018 CRS.

Ed

Use and insert for aluminum their razor sharp and will leave nice finish, or borrow Robs camera

DA

[EdK]

And another piece done. This one's made from 300 series SS. The thread is 3/8-24 and 2" long. This is the screw that the nut rides on to push the center forward into the workpiece being held.

Ed

   

[EdK]

Next I need to finish machining the body to accept the center. I'm not sure what the best way is to hold it for machining so I'm looking for suggestions. The first picture shows the top view and the second the front view. In the front view, the top line intersection is where I need to bore a .930" hole all the way through both sides of the body. That hole needs to be accurately in line with the rectangular cut-out seen at the bottom of the body. That cut-out gets a key mounted in it to key the tailstock to the mill table slot. The diameter of the body is 3.25", if that helps.

Ed

         

[DaveH]

Ed,
I would just hold it in my machine vice. Clamping between the two parallel end faces. Just make sure the boring bar can go all the way through before it hits the bottom of the vice between the jaws. Use a couple of spacers.
 
DaveH

[EdK]

Dave,

That was my first thought also but the vise jaws are only about 1.5" tall and if I space the workpiece up from the vise so I can mill through the two walls, there's not much vise jaw left holding the 3.25" diameter workpiece. That doesn't seem like it would be a very stout setup.

Ed

[DaveH]

Ed,
I think it will be fine, a .25" spacer (to space the workpiece up) will probably do. Just have to watch the drill points as well.

The main trouble you will have is drilling a large hole - that's going to cause all the vibrations, so you may not be able to drill a large hole as you first thought. Keep the drill speed slow and some cutting fluid. On drills past .5" dia. there will always be some vibration when you first start drilling because you are drilling on a round/ curved surface and not a flat one. Slow, slow and slow. Make sure all the beds are "locked" are put some "drag" on the Z axis.
 
DaveH