Let's See Your Mill

[Kennyv]

(07-02-2015, 06:56 AM)PixMan Wrote: Anytime you can step up to a more rigid, well built milling machine you should. The difference you find straightaway in everything from runout, cutting ability, spindle speeds, tool life to achievable surface finish makes the move worthwhile.

Just happen to log on sawn this .. I wrote Matt early this week we went over some machine Q's regarding run outs. Than I purposed Q about trade in, if he would entertain the thought . He said wouldn't be a prob . I have a new lathe on order too . I may be able to pick up both same day.

Now I have allot to consider ... woulda shoulda coulda

This little machine is ok for prob what im gona do in garage .. I find having to do things allot dif .regarding tool change Z column up, up down up down...... ..I find my hands go in wrong places like when I try to hold the brake and take a tool out of keyless chuck...lol..

Anyways this is a big decision to upgrade a 932 M with DRO ( havr to get the DRO no?) and that is about $1500 more ( yea but I gain 2 inches and #700Pds) and rigidity so say the least .. My space is limited and the925MV fits perfect for area I now have ..if I have to get rid of beer fridge ill have to get a smaller one ..lol...

No here may be my stumbling block . The 932M runs on 220V not sure if it can run on 110V? is that possible
and if so how much power do I loose?

If not I have to consider bringing 220V out into the garage my current Electrical box is maxed out.. as I already stole the last breaker spot to run a dedicated 20 Amp line . Than wheni got Central air we maxed out this box stealing 2 spots . Another words my box needed to be upgraded to 200 amp service and than I will have to run 220V out to garage. That will run me well over a Gino
Im already stretched on my lathe and mill tooling ect...... not sure I want to go there . I think about moving /retiring one day like to take machines with me . Than when I settle in my retirement house I will add EVERY THING AN ANYTHING TO MY LIKEN

Hmmm ... Big decisions lot to consider ????????.... Btw don't want you Guys to say yea go for it!!!!! think about the whole picture . When I move id like to get rid of every thing less hand tools ..... start fresh and clean don't want the burden nor to have hardship.
Hope that makes sense ..

[EdK]

If you're saying when you move you will get rid of the machines and buy new ones when settled in the new place, then just live with what you've got and purchase the larger ones when you move. If you plan on taking the machines to the new place then buy the biggest you can now, if possible. Almost nobody ever says they wished they had purchased smaller machines.

Ed

[Sunset Machine]

It should run just fine on 110 if the motor allows it. Would bet that it does.
It might start slower, but you won't lose any power once it's up to speed. A watt is a watt. The question is if your house wiring can deliver the voltage at that load. I wouldn't even worry about it myself. Your vacuum cleaner probably draws more power.

About the DRO. A small mill, does the operator really need a DRO? It's a sales gimmick. Gotta have blinken lights on it? Probably not.

[TomG]

A DRO is a worthwhile addition to any mill, regardless of size because it eliminates the need to compensate for backlash. That increases accuracy and greatly speeds up the machining process. Not sure I'd spend the money on one for mill I was considering upgrading, since a larger mill would require different scales.

Tom

[Kennyv]

Thanks sunset   Sure goes both ways. As I have used Dros  also  CNC which is same thing  .

.. Btw  I been using Manual  for years... even use indicators as axis zeros  don't phase me.  A DRO is convenient .
And  Right you are  Tom. Another factor to consider is  with a DRO  s ability to reset you can always move in absolute ,  Zero calculate  re calculate and reset  and NOT have to worry or get error wither re- zero and Lock  on the Dial.  I can get around the back lash as long as I rem when im hurrying things up.. But  saying  %100  over %100  is gona happen when you lock redial and relock  ..  More prone to have an  error.
Amway's the Q here is not to go not to go  with DRO,. JMHO that would be well worth it with it with a bigger machine. The Q is

is the motor equipped  to run on 110V ? will it loose % of HP ?
And is it worth the cost in what I need/ want machine for.? Considering the sacrifice extra costs in borrowing .

[Vinny]

Kenny, your best bet regarding 110v ops with the new mill is to write Matt and ask him if it'll run on 110.

[Sunset Machine]

Most motors have tags on them telling you how to wire 'em up.

[arvidj]

(07-02-2015, 07:39 AM)Kennyv Wrote: No here may be my stumbling block  . The 932M runs on 220V not sure if it can run on 110V? is that possible
and if so how much power do I loose?

If not I have to consider bringing 220V out into the garage my current  Electrical box is maxed out.. as I already stole the last  breaker spot to run a dedicated 20 Amp line . Than wheni got Central air  we maxed out this box stealing 2 spots . Another words my box needed to be upgraded to  200 amp  service  and than I will have to run 220V out to garage. That will run me well over a Gino
Im already  stretched on  my lathe and mill tooling ect......  not sure I want to go there . I think about moving /retiring one day like to take machines with me . Than when I settle  in my retirement house I will add EVERY THING AN ANYTHING TO MY LIKEN

Obviously Matt from Precision Matthews will have the final word so I am just speculating ...

The specs say 220v at 9 amps. That would suggest at 110v it would be 18 amps.

Those are probably "maximum run" draw and you may not actually see that unless you have a heavy cut or come close to stalling the motor. But there is no getting around the fact that "start" loads will be significantly more. As an example my 220v 5hp compressor is rated at 23-27 amps yet draws over 50 when it starts. Admittedly for only a brief second and probably not an issue as most breakers are slow-blow for exactly that reason, but something to consider given you are working close to the maximums the circuit can provide.

It would also suggest that there is not a lot of excess capacity left for other items on the same circuit to also be on ... like if your compressor kicks on or you turn on one too many lights or the garage door opener is used [wife comes home and wants to part the car] or ...

You may also want to consider how much wire is between the mill and the breaker box. Assuming the circuit is on a 20 amp breaker we can assume it is 12 gauge wire. At 18 amps 55 feet of 12 gauge ... that's total from the breaker to the motor, not just to the outlet ... is right at the recommended maximum voltage drop of 3%.

And you would need a 20 amp outlet, not the ubiquitous 15 amp outlets used in most homes and garages. The outlet is easy to change if need be but the wire needs to support the 20 amps, not just the outlet.

Sorry, I know I'm putting a very wet blanket on your ideas but I wanted to go through the thought process.

And as others have pointed out, it might actually start and run well enough to meet your needs until you can rewire the garage.

Arvid

[Sunset Machine]

120/18 amps translates to 1-1/2 HP. That's a hefty motor for a small mill.

It has an electronic speed controller, doesn't it. One of those where you slow it down and lose horsepower in the process. So they compensate with a bigger motor. Then at high speed, the tooling is small and unable to support all that horsepower. If that is correct (is it?), then the motor will never see full load.

[Kennyv]

Quote:Obviously Matt from Precision Matthews will have the final word so I am just speculating ...

The specs say 220v at 9 amps. That would suggest at 110v it would be 18 amps.

It would also suggest that there is not a lot of excess capacity left for other items on the same circuit to also be on ... like if your compressor kicks on or you turn on one too many lights or the garage door opener is used [wife comes home and wants to part the car] or ...
.Arvid

The compressor kicks on yea  that can happen  ..Mrs parks car in garage aint never gona happen lol...  car never seen this garage never did never will aint room for the both of us..... ...only my scoot
Btw I do have a dedicated 20 amp line that I RAN TO GARAGE when I first moved in... there is a small 15 amp already in garage but that's only used for lighting . Most if not all machine are run one at time except like you indicated compressor kiks on....  

Quote:You may also want to consider how much wire is between the mill and the breaker box. Assuming the circuit is on a 20 amp breaker we can assume it is 12 gauge wire. At 18 amps 55 feet of 12 gauge ... that's total from the breaker to the motor, not just to the outlet ... is right at the recommended maximum voltage drop of 3%.

And you would need a 20 amp outlet, not the ubiquitous 15 amp outlets used in most homes and garages. The outlet is easy to change if need be but the wire needs to support the 20 amps, not just the outlet.

Sorry, I know I'm putting a very wet blanket on your ideas but I wanted to go through the thought process.

And as others have pointed out, it might actually start and run well enough to meet your needs until you can rewire the garage

No  its all good I need to consider the costs  and what I have now..... .Right now 20 amps dedicated circuit to garage  with BX in attic Romex in garage

.My Garage is the furthest  point from my circuit box .. id say a 45-50' run .  I think I have 100 amp  Box ( everything used to max) In fact my AC guy did me big favor to add condenser 220V without changing box)
So im maxed out for  any new new line . Now I can get  wired 200-300 amps Box  cheap ( as I know the guy)  However to bring out 220 thats another story.