Fixing a Leaky RF-45 Mill Head - Enco

[ETC57]

Ed,

I know that wrench!!

   


Jerry.

P.S. they open bottles well too!!!

[EdK]

(03-22-2012, 08:40 PM)ETC57 Wrote: P.S. they open bottles well too!!!

I just may have to try that this afternoon.

Ed

[EdK]

I got the taper roller bearings out. I was hoping to reuse the original bearings because of the cost of new P/6 bearings but it looks like I'm going to have to spring for new bearings. I'm not liking what I see in the old bearings.

Ed

   

   

[DaveH]

Ed,
I have to say I have seen a lot worse than them.

Having said that, it is best to change them whilst it is apart

DaveH

[TOM REED]

[quote='EdAK' pid='1558' dateline='1332516024']
I got the taper roller bearings out. I was hoping to reuse the original bearings because of the cost of new P/6 bearings but it looks like I'm going to have to spring for new bearings. I'm not liking what I see in the old bearings.

Ed

look a little rough, you will have to make sure the preload is st correctly on the new ones, I assume there is an adjustment for preload (usually always provided fo tapered rollers) tom

[EdK]

(03-23-2012, 11:35 AM)TOM REED Wrote: look a little rough, you will have to make sure the preload is st correctly on the new ones, I assume there is an adjustment for preload (usually always provided fo tapered rollers) tom

That in itself is a pain in the butt since the preload nut is on the top side of the spindle and inaccessible once the mill is back together. I'll just have to make my best guess on the preload and run it and see what happens. Worst case is I'll have to drop the spindle out a few times to adjust the preload. It's not too bad since I won't install the fine, and I use that term lightly, down-feed mechanism until I have the preload correct. The problem with that is removing and inserting the quill numerous times is going to put some wear on the new seals but hopefully not enough to cause a problem.

Ed

[TOM REED]

(03-23-2012, 12:30 PM)EdAK Wrote:

(03-23-2012, 11:35 AM)TOM REED Wrote: look a little rough, you will have to make sure the preload is st correctly on the new ones, I assume there is an adjustment for preload (usually always provided fo tapered rollers) tom

That in itself is a pain in the butt since the preload nut is on the top side of the spindle and inaccessible once the mill is back together. I'll just have to make my best guess on the preload and run it and see what happens. Worst case is I'll have to drop the spindle out a few times to adjust the preload. It's not too bad since I won't install the fine, and I use that term lightly, down-feed mechanism until I have the preload correct. The problem with that is removing and inserting the quill numerous times is going to put some wear on the new seals but hopefully not enough to cause a problem.

Ed

Looking at the quill I have at home (ISO30) you should be able to adjust the preload before you put the assembly into the mill. You should adjust it till you feel a nice drag on the shaft then back off about 1/8 of a turn just about the same as when doing wheel bearings on your pickup. Make sure they are wel lubed when doing so. Lubriplate 104 works excellent in places like this and is not too messy, also blends with the gear lubed well. tom

[EdK]

Tom,

That's my plan. It should work out OK. I have some stuff from Lucas Oil called "Red "N" Tacky #2" that I used on the bearings for my 9x20 lathe when I replaced them. It was recommended for the job. That's what I'll be using on the bearings for the mill.

Ed

[EdK]

I got the lower tapered roller bearing out. It looks worse than the upper bearing. Now I need to figure out how to get the race out. Any ideas?

Ed

   

   

[DaveH]

Hi Ed,

That custom puller you made might be able to do it, if the "jaws" are turned around

DaveH