I NEED A Compressor

[EdK]

Indoors in the winter is very dry so there are no worries about the humidity then. In the summer months when it's humid, I run a dehumidifier down the basement.

Ed

[arvidj]

Ed,

An intercooler is a air-to-air radiator between the compressor and the tank. It lowers the temperature of the compressed air before it goes into the tank so there is a better chance of the moisture coming out of the air in the tank rather than in your air lines or in your tools. It is on the outside of the guard that covers the belt between the motor and the compressor. The fan like blades on the compressor pully draw air over it when the compressor is running. I have measured the input and output sides of the intercooler with a HF IR thermometer when it is running and see ~300F and ~90F respectively.

Here is what I did and why, but feel free to do what ever you want as there are multiple ways to mitigate any of the issues that I mention. I consider the compressor to be a significant investment and decisions were made to address what other might consider small or "don't bother with it" details in an effort to protect the investment. After I retire I will not be able to afford to replace it so I wanted to do everything I could to ensure this one really did last "a lifetime".

I put the compressor in the basement for several reasons.

Annual weather conditions based on this information http://weatherspark.com/averages/30956/M...ted-States.

The first was related to temperature as the documentation for the compressor recommended 20 weight oil for the lower temperatures that it would see in the winter if I did not heat the garage and 30 weight oil for the temperatures it would see if I did not have the garage air conditioner on. In the basement the temperature is relatively stable.

I opted for an oil level sensor that goes in the electrical line to the motor. I provides two nice features ... (a) a sight glass so I can see the level of the oil in the compressor and (b) if the level is too low it prevents the compressor from turning on.

The second was humidity. The interior of the house is conditioned and the humidity remains between 35% and 45% all year. Exterior humidity is higher than that much more than it is lower so that was a plus.

Third was that I have an 80 gallon tank and did not have room for it in the garage but did have room for it in the laundry area of the basement.

Other options included a 1750 rpm motor and 875 rpm compressor. The slow speeds bring the noise level way down ... a consideration given that the compressor is "in the house". I also have a muffler on the input side of the compressor to quiet things down. You can still hear it when it comes on but it is no louder than the cloths washer if the load is out of balance and neither Bev nor I actually notice it.

The tank feeds a stainless braided line for vibration and then goes to a water separator\filter, then a very fine filter, then a desiccant moisture remover and finally to a pressure regulator that reduces the 155 - 175 psi in the tank ... low and high set points on the compressor ... to a reasonably constant 135 psi in the distribution system. With an 80 gallon tank, a 18cfm rate compressor and a single user the distribution system very seldom goes below 135.

I have been contemplating a "Franzinator" between the intercooler and the tank to reduce the moisture content in the air but it is wating for a round-to-it for implementation.

And I have gone thru several automated tank drains but have yet to find one that works for more than a couple of months. I have reached the point where I think an Arduino programmed to do exactly what I want and a small electro-mechanical valve is what it is going to take.

For air line plumbing ... hopefully we will avoid the 'use PVC' discussion as it is ... at least in my opinion ... a non-starter based on the dangers involved ... but again it is your life and safety so feel free to do what you want.

I use type 'L' copper tube with silver soldered joints. The choice of copper tube over galvanized or black iron pipe was based simply on 'ease of implementation' in my situation. I do not own a pipe cutter or threader but do have copper tube tools. I plumbed most of the water copper in the house 28 years ago so I have experience with the technology. And the few times that I have been forced to use threaded technology I have had issues with very small leaks. [side note ... Teflon pipe dope ... not tape ... had become a staple in my tool box for such situations]

I use 1 inch as the main feed to 3/4 inch loops in the garage and the basement, and 1/2 inch drops following the ubiquitous pattern Walter recommended.

Arvid

[EdK]

Arvid,

Wow! Thanks for all of the great information.

I too will use L copper since I've done a lot of plumbing with it and haven't had a leaky joint in decades. On the other hand, just about every threaded pipe joint I've ever done has leaked to some degree. I solder electronics as part of my job so soldering is a breeze for me.

I'll be placing the compressor in the laundry area also since that's where I have the room for it and the electrical service panel is there also so it makes it easy to wire in the 220V outlet for the compressor. Plus, the laundry room is right next to the attached garage so I can easily run an air line out to the garage. I may need to temporarily locate the compressor out in the garage until spring. With snow on the ground now there is no way to get around the back of the house to the patio door to get the compressor in the basement. I might be able to get it through the garage entrance door and down the stairs into the basement since it's a straight shot from the entrance door to the basement steps but it would be tricky.

Anyway, the first thing is to get it home and into the garage and then I can figure out how to get it down the basement.

Ed

[f350ca]

If you go with copper lines use a good quality hose section from the tank to isolate vibrations and noise. You may find you have to lag it down to the concrete to stop it walking around on the floor, Rubber pads between the feet and the floor will help a little bit on the noise. Get rid of the tank drain and use an elbow to bring the line out to the side and put in a ball valve. The ones they use will rust up, seize so you cant open them or start leaking. If you have a sump pump or floor drain run a line from the tank drain over there, they produce lots of water.

[EdK]

(12-09-2012, 12:33 PM)f350ca Wrote: If you go with copper lines use a good quality hose section from the tank to isolate vibrations and noise. You may find you have to lag it down to the concrete to stop it walking around on the floor, Rubber pads between the feet and the floor will help a little bit on the noise. Get rid of the tank drain and use an elbow to bring the line out to the side and put in a ball valve. The ones they use will rust up, seize so you cant open them or start leaking. If you have a sump pump or floor drain run a line from the tank drain over there, they produce lots of water.

Greg,

By "good quality hose section" are you talking about the rubber type of air hose or some other special type of hose for the vibration and noise isolation.
Thanks for the information. There's a floor drain in the laundry area so I'll do as you suggested. Are the fittings on the compressor regular pipe fittings so I can use a regular galvanized pipe elbow for routing the drain line to the floor drain?

Ed

[stevec]

I just leave my compressor alone and when I notice it's recovery tiime getting shorter then I know it's time to takea dozen or so gallons of water out of the tank.
May have sumthin to do with the decrease in efficiency of my pneumatic tools. Oh well they're about due for an updating anyway.

[f350ca]

Steve, never said I use the drain, thats why I suggested running a line to the sump. I probably get a gallon when I do drain it. (all over the floor, no drain, do as I say not as I do)
Yah Ed they should be NPT. Probably about 1/4 inch on the drain, after the ball valve you could use anything, just the clear plastic hose would be fine, lay it out when you need it then roll it up out of the way.
I had some single steel braided line we used at work for air lines on the trucks, (I miss work surplus supplies). It has reusable thread on ends. Even after the tank the air can be warm if you sand blasting so a good hose should last longer. I try to remember to shut the compressor of when Im not using it, lasts days just blowing stuff off. The copper lines should never fail but if that soft line broke the compressor could run a long time out in the shop before I noticed it. Will try to remember to get a photo. Wonder if a hydraulic line wouldn't work.

[stevec]

I've wondered if a contactor (er?) could be energized by the shop lights so the compressor couldn't turn itself on when the lights were out?
But then, I've been known to leave the lights on.

Maybe a switch in the mattress of our bed could de-energize a contactor (er?) and turn off the lights in the shop??
Maybe I digress.
Please, no comments about activity in the bed causing the shop lights to flash on and off.

[ETC57]

(12-09-2012, 06:32 PM)stevec Wrote: I've wondered if a contactor (er?) could be energized by the shop lights so the compressor couldn't turn itself on when the lights were out?
But then, I've been known to leave the lights on.

Maybe a switch in the mattress of our bed could de-energize a contactor (er?) and turn off the lights in the shop??
Maybe I digress.
Please, no comments about activity in the bed causing the shop lights to flash on and off.

No comment?
Awwwwwww!! but I really really really want to!
Jerry.

[f350ca]

Thats not a bad idea Steve, thought about connecting an hour meter to the lights to keep track of project time.
Ed here's the hose I was mentioning, some where like Acklands may have it, if you were closer I have a pile of it but short on ends. They're a JIC style fitting with a finer thread if I remember correctly, (probably not)