Posts: 139
Threads: 14
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Nelson, BC, Canada
I keep 1/2" and 3/4" NPt ones of those in stock, 12" long, Stainless Steel Flex braid hoses for hooking between the compressors and the plumbed in system.
I also mounted my compressor on Hockey Puck Feet. Helps to reduce vibration and noise.
Here is some info on setting up compressed air lines.
Airline piping diagram.pdf (Size: 173.69 KB / Downloads: 7)
Walter
starlight_tools, proud to be a member of Metalworking Forum since Apr 2012.
Posts: 139
Threads: 14
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Nelson, BC, Canada
Here is the other Typical installation guide for compressed air.
Here is my beastie, a Gardner Denver Two Stage Pump on a 80 Gal tank with 5 HP 3 phase motor. Unit delivers about 28 CFM at 175 PSI. Being 3 Phase, whenever I shut down the shop, I turn off the RPC so there is no way the compressor can start in the middle of the night. There is a Shut Off Valve at the tank, then a union and a Stainless Steel Braided Flex line to absorb any vibration before the rest of the piping which is all 3/4" Black Pipe for the trucnk lines and 1/2" Black Pipe for any drops.
Here is the Compressed Air Dryer with Pre and Post water/debris filters. also shut off vlaves so it can be bypassed and isolated for cleaning and service without shutting the whole system down.
Here is one of the drop legs. I went crazy with shut off valves and have one before the pressure regulator and one below the air drain port. I also pipe plugged the drain ports as I get no water carry-over with the air dryer in the system.
Walter
starlight_tools, proud to be a member of Metalworking Forum since Apr 2012.
Posts: 8,892
Threads: 320
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
Thanks Greg. I get the idea now.
Ed
Posts: 8,892
Threads: 320
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
Thanks for the diagrams Walter. I didn't realize it was as involved as it is. Not a problem now that I know how it's supposed to be done.
Ed
Posts: 2,685
Threads: 29
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Ed, just keep in mind, you can always do it half-a$$ed like me, and still enjoy years of compressed air.
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
Posts: 139
Threads: 14
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Nelson, BC, Canada
Ed
Many years ago, as a young pup millwright apprentice, I was asked to add an air line to a new section of the R&D shop.
The owner of the plant came along and got upset with me that the air line was not plumbed in "level" When I explained why I had put the line in at a 1:12 slope he said he did not care, it offended his sense on symmetry and demanded that I level the pipes.
The big thing to remember is
1: Compressed air is a force that is contained in special pipes and vessels. If that force is allowed to escape in an uncontrolled manor, it can KILL!
2: Compressed air takes whatever moisture is in the air and "seemingly multiplies it" So that there is always moisture being condensed out of the air as it cools. This moisture then gets into the tools and lines and causes problems. Something must be done to remove this water before it can cause problems.
3: No matter how big of a compressor you get, you will always realize after wards that you should have gotten a bigger one.
For the average home shop, as long as these rules are obeyed, everyone will be safe. Piping can be as simple as strapping rubber hoses to the wall, or even running them behind tools. I operated for years with a smaller compressor, standing in the corner of the shop and a rubber air hose that went from there to where ever I needed it in the shop. I got tired of the noise of the compressor running constantly, of always stepping on the hoses while moving around the shop and water always spitting out of the air line whenever I tried to do anything. I added water traps to the sand blaster and other bigger units, but the small compressor was running 24/7 whenever sand blasting and I was being drowned!
When this compressor came up, it was 3 phase and the guy that owned it was having troubles even giving it away as "nobody" could run it. to make matters worse, the "controls" were missing. I had just put in the RPC, so jumped on the deal. I came up with a control box from by "bits and pieces boxes". I replaced the mis-sized belt and improper motor sheave with two of the correctly sized belts and the correct sheave. The deal came with two of the Zeks air coolers, so I installed one in my shop and went to the fun of plumbing in the whole system. Now I have a properly done system. There was no belt guard so that is being remedied.
Oh just remembering my setup from 30 odd years ago, a similar sized tank with a 3 Hp single stage Devilbiss pump on it. I put it beside the garage and made a little lean-to over it to keep it from getting too wet. Then I ran a length of "hose" that I just happened to have, rubber hose with a steel braid inside, basically Hydraulic hose between the garage and the basement of the house by sliding it between the fence boards of the fence between ours and the neighbours property to where my workshop was set up. 1/4 NPT fittings just nicely screwed into this hose and a tridon clamp to make sure it could not pop out and I had a good safe air line system.
Ran Like that for years until I moved out of the house.
Walter
starlight_tools, proud to be a member of Metalworking Forum since Apr 2012.
Posts: 8,892
Threads: 320
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
(12-10-2012, 01:39 PM)stevec Wrote: Ed, just keep in mind, you can always do it half-a$$ed like me, and still enjoy years of compressed air.
Steve,
Good to know. Depending on the mood I'm in that day, I may end up doing an half-assed job, but probably not. I don't like the risk involved. I guess I'm somewhat of a coward, but one with all digits still intact.
Ed
Posts: 8,892
Threads: 320
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
Resurrecting this old thread so as not to derail my shop press thread by going too off topic.
These are the two I'm considering. I only want to do this once. I know they are not the top of the line compressors but they should be adequate for my needs for the foreseeable future.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/p..._200596486
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardwa...-12910.htm
I'm leaning towards the NorthStar compressor. It's made in Minnesota and they offer free shipping to my house. It has a number of other features that make it stand out compared to the Sanborn, which also use to be made in Minnesota.
I'm sick of dreaming about getting a decent compressor so I'm just going to bite the bullet and "get'r done".
All constructive opinions welcome.
Ed
Posts: 742
Threads: 35
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Minor correction from their website ... It may be assembled in Minnesota but "This air compressor includes components that are made overseas. It is assembled in the USA."
Claims to have an after cooler but I do not see one where I would expect to see one in the picture. Their definition of 'after cooler' may be different than what I think it should be.
They say "Operates at slower RPM" but do not say what the compressor RPM actually is. Slower is usually quieter.
The motor is a Leeson which is a good thing in my opinion.
2 stage, 175 PSI, 80 gallon tank, cast iron, 100% duty cycle, rebuildable (assuming you can get the parts) are all good things, again in my opinion.
Be sure to add filters, dryers, regulators, automated drains, plumbing, wiring for a dedicated 30 amp outlet, etc. to your budget.
Just my thoughts,
Arvid
Posts: 8,892
Threads: 320
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona/Minnesota
(05-07-2014, 07:02 PM)arvidj Wrote: Minor correction from their website ... It may be assembled in Minnesota but "This air compressor includes components that are made overseas. It is assembled in the USA."
Claims to have an after cooler but I do not see one where I would expect to see one in the picture. Their definition of 'after cooler' may be different than what I think it should be.
They say "Operates at slower RPM" but do not say what the compressor RPM actually is. Slower is usually quieter.
The motor is a Leeson which is a good thing in my opinion.
2 stage, 175 PSI, 80 gallon tank, cast iron, 100% duty cycle, rebuildable (assuming you can get the parts) are all good things, again in my opinion.
Be sure to add filters, dryers, regulators, automated drains, plumbing, wiring for a dedicated 30 amp outlet, etc. to your budget.
Just my thoughts,
Arvid
All valid points Arvid. I know the pump is sourced from Italy but the rest is a crap shoot, I guess. The video shows them making some of the parts in their manufacturing facility in Minnesota but they don't say how much is actually manufactured in Minnesota. I don't think it really matters though since you generally get what you pay for and I'm not expecting a top of the line compressor. Just one better than the $350 dollar Sanford that I was thinking of getting. This is why I've been procrastinating so long on getting a compressor. Too many variables and decisions to make. I don't want to get one that's not adequate but can't justify a top of the line compressor with the accompanying costs.
Ed
|