Stock racks...what do you use?
#21
It is funny that you should say that Ken, as the very first piece I grabbed was just an inch too short to stand up. I'm thinking about placing a piece of weld mesh in that space on one of the three sections.

I tend to make my shelves out of angle that way, as then I can simply cut some wood to size and drop it in.

I don't own a brake of any size but I would like to have one. However, for the amount of work it would get, I cannot justify finding the space to keep it. Although, having said that, if I had one it may get a lot of use...

One thing I forgot to mention is that I wasn't sure how long each divider poked out from the shelves, as it wasn't on the drawing. The solution was simple. I took a length of angle and set the bottom flush with front of the base of the rack. I then tilted it back until it was parallel with the angled side of the rack and clamped it in place. I then measured from the rear of the shelf to the guide, marked and cut. The finishing touch, which isn't evident in the picture is the 1/2" radius ground onto the corners of the dividers.
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#22
What a great idea to put a mesh in that area! Come over and upgrade mine!

Sorry about omitting those dimensions. Strange, because I recall measuring them. Oops.
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#23
(04-26-2015, 12:01 PM)PixMan Wrote: What a great idea to put a mesh in that area! Come over and upgrade mine!

Can you wait until October?

(04-26-2015, 12:01 PM)PixMan Wrote: Sorry about omitting those dimensions. Strange, because I recall measuring them. Oops.

No worries, it wasn't a problem to figure it out.  For me the key dimensions were the actual frame itself, as it was the size that I liked.  The configuration of the shelves and whether I made it 3 bays or 4 doesn't matter.
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#24
Are these racks able to stand without any support (ie against a wall) can I use one in the middle of the work shop?
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DaveH
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#25
Darren,

When you get a chance, would you please post some close-up pictures of your rack? Especially the joints. I'm drawing this up and am not sure how the joints are done.

Thanks,
Ed
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#26
Dave - yes, it is free standing,as can be seen in my picture. You can always bolt it to the floor if you are concerned.

Ed - when I'm in the shop next I'll get some pictures. Most joints are notched.
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#27
Thanks Darren,
Initially I thought it would need to stand against a wall, then I saw the pic of yours made me re-think it. 
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DaveH
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#28
Ed - here is a picture from Google showing a notched angle ready for welding:

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236...7a4cc0.jpg

I think these are also referred to as copes.
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#29
(04-27-2015, 05:48 PM)Mayhem Wrote: Dave - yes, it is free standing,as can be seen in my picture.  You can always bolt it to the floor if you are concerned.

Ed - when I'm in the shop next I'll get some pictures.  Most joints are notched.

I don't think it would be safe to leave it free-standing away from a wall without lagging it to the floor....IF there's a lot of longer stock leaning on the angled side without compensating "ballast" of full, heavy shelves.
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#30
(04-27-2015, 09:39 PM)PixMan Wrote: I don't think it would be safe to leave it free-standing away from a wall without lagging it to the floor....IF there's a lot of longer stock leaning on the angled side without compensating "ballast" of full, heavy shelves.

I can use some (4) rawl bolts and fix it to the concrete floor. I thought about extending the angle iron to make a larger base (good for tripping over Chin ) I could make it double sided but I would still have to be careful balancing each side.

I have a lot of metal 3meters long (10 foot) - not round bar, mainly square/round tubing, angle iron, flat bar all different sizes it would be nice to get it off the floor? I don't like cutting if smaller - tends to be wasteful, especially if I want a couple pieces of angle 2100mm long and I have cut it 1500mm long Bash
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