Indexable insert face mills and shoulder mills
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Indexable insert face mills and shoulder mills
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10-12-2016, 09:04 PM
Absolutely not. I love that thing
 I was just complaining that it takes longer to clean up than it does to actually do the job!
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
10-12-2016, 11:26 PM
10-13-2016, 06:43 AM
You should have noticed that same "feature" from when we work in my shop. I've been too lazy to build and too cheap to buy shields too, yet seem to find the energy to do a clean-up after (almost) every job. Those that I don't, it was a job for one of my sons and they get to do the clean-up as payment for the work.
BTW, I'm calling BS on the .250" (6,35mm) depth of cut unless you were deliberately abusing the tool. The last two digits of the nomenclature define the maximum depth of cut, so an F2280.UB.051DC.Z03.04 is limited to 4mm (.1575") depth per pass without engaging a second edge. It'll do it though, if your machine has the power.
10-13-2016, 07:01 AM
Chips galore, what a mess... lol This is how I solve it, not wanting a bunch of set up gymnastics. I made the end pieces out of sheet metal, they sit in place on there own weight. Then cut two grinder face shields to clear the vise.
As seen contains the mess pretty well, of course size matters and this would not the be all end all fix. Just passing along an idea. greg
Magazines have issues, everything else has problems
10-13-2016, 09:51 AM
(10-13-2016, 06:43 AM)PixMan Wrote: You should have noticed that same "feature" from when we work in my shop. I've been too lazy to build and too cheap to buy shields too, yet seem to find the energy to do a clean-up after (almost) every job. Those that I don't, it was a job for one of my sons and they get to do the clean-up as payment for the work. Yes, but I realised that there is more open space to the right of my mill than in your shop... At least these weren't hot! (10-13-2016, 06:43 AM)PixMan Wrote: BTW, I'm calling BS on the .250" (6,35mm) depth of cut unless you were deliberately abusing the tool. The last two digits of the nomenclature define the maximum depth of cut, so an F2280.UB.051DC.Z03.04 is limited to 4mm (.1575") depth per pass without engaging a second edge. It'll do it though, if your machine has the power. No BS - just ignorance as to the nomenclature. I gave it 2.5 revolutions on the knee crank, thinking it would be OK. My theory was that it was in aluminium and the 4042R shoulder mill with the much smaller inserts can take a 10mm cut (if I recall correctly). I know that I wouldn't have tried it in anything other than aluminium. Also, I had a witness. Surely at .1575" you are engaging a second edge 
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
10-13-2016, 02:47 PM
(10-10-2016, 05:17 PM)EdK Wrote:(10-10-2016, 08:34 AM)Mayhem Wrote: Well it threw chips all over my shop and took ages to clean up Damn!! I had that backwards, I thought cleaning was overrated!!................. 
jack
10-17-2016, 11:22 AM
Just kidding on the BS callout, Darren! You know enough about your machine and your cutters to be safe.
It can take a fair amount of cutting force to slow down a milling cutter in aluminum. This is where sharp, high-positive inserts do their job well. Most people using that type of cutter will stay within the length of the leading angle edge. In steels that cut would probably break some inserts. 
11-16-2016, 09:42 PM
(10-13-2016, 07:01 AM)pepi Wrote: Chips galore, what a mess... lol This is how I solve it, not wanting a bunch of set up gymnastics. I made the end pieces out of sheet metal, they sit in place on there own weight. Then cut two grinder face shields to clear the vise. I like it! This has inspired me to make a similar guard for my mill, of course when I find time 
I'm looking at tooling for my Van Norman #12 mill, and after reading through all the good info in this thread afew times am thinking that one of these insert cutters would be a useful addition.
I see that some of the original part numbers seem to show up as "discontinued" now, so wanted to check if there's a more current recommendation. I'll be mainly working with carbon steel, with the occasional aluminium and cast iron project. I understand the value in high quality tools, but for a hobby user is getting a cheaper tool/holder and running quality inserts a valid option? I'm thinking that as long as the cutting performance was OK, a hobby user is probably unlikely to use it enough to wear out the holder itself? I've no idea whether that's true though, as I have nil experience in this area! Steve
08-16-2017, 06:39 AM
Discontinued cutters are perfectly fine for home shop use, as we don't need the latest and greatest. As long as the inserts are still available there are good deals to be had.
Geometry is the key thing for home shop milling, as it reduces the cutting forces, which is essential on machines with low HP. If you look at the inserts on the post by Jack on the first page, you will see the angle at which the cutting edge is presented to the work. Stay away from flat inserts that are held perpendicular to the work, as these will simply hammer the hell out of your bearings and leave you with a crap finish. What HP is your mill and what drive is the spindle?
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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