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[TomG]

(04-09-2022, 10:11 AM)EdK Wrote:

(04-09-2022, 10:08 AM)TomG Wrote: Not sure how hard the steel is, but maybe it could be pinned.

Tom

I was thinking of drilling it at the seam and pinning it with a threaded pin so it could be pulled out if needed. Then the two could be separated if needed.

Ed

If you go with a threaded pin, a pipe plug may be in order, so there is no play. They are available down to 1/16" NPT.

Tom

[EdK]

(04-09-2022, 10:18 AM)TomG Wrote:

(04-09-2022, 10:11 AM)EdK Wrote:

(04-09-2022, 10:08 AM)TomG Wrote: Not sure how hard the steel is, but maybe it could be pinned.

Tom

I was thinking of drilling it at the seam and pinning it with a threaded pin so it could be pulled out if needed. Then the two could be separated if needed.

Ed

If you go with a threaded pin, a pipe plug may be in order, so there is no play. They are available down to 1/16" NPT.

Tom

I meant an internal thread in the pin. Smooth outer surface. They call them "Pull-Out Dowel Pins" on McMaster's web site.

Ed

[vtsteam]

Willie, I think I will permanently secure them together. I thought about welding or brazing, but I don't want to heat.

The Loctite appealed to me -- seemed like a good and neat one. I have some Loctite 620 for bearing retention and steam crankshaft building. Seems like that would hold permanently -- the threads are pretty fine and it's a big area.

But Ed if you pin yours successfully, I might follow suit.

[Highpower]

(04-09-2022, 10:07 AM)EdK Wrote:

(04-09-2022, 09:56 AM)Highpower Wrote: a diamond grinding wheel is my friend when it comes to getting a sharp cutting edge on those import brazed carbide cutting tools

What diamond grinding wheel do you have?  

Ed

This is the one I have been using for quite awhile now. I finish up by polishing the surfaces on my home made lapping machine using 5 micron diamond paste, but straight off the grinder will still work too.

   
   

I am going to refine things a bit more since I bought a couple of massive 10" diamond wheels (360 and 600 grit) for my Tormek as well. Not something I would recommend to others though unless you enjoy being poor.

[vtsteam]

Well, also, even though I said I didn't want to make tools for it, after thinking about it for a bit, one could make a single left hand boring bar that would cover a reasonable range of bore diameters.

The horizontal socket is a through hole, unlike the vertical position socket. That's why I guess they provide so many vertical boring bars in a kit.

And it's not that hard to make a single left handed boring bar using an indexable insert -- seems like a single bar would cover the full range of reasonable stick out diameters.

And the advantage would be you don't have to remember to run in reverse (not that I would ever do that!)

[Highpower]

(04-09-2022, 11:01 AM)vtsteam Wrote: And the advantage would be you don't have to remember to run in reverse (not that I would ever do that!)

Starting the mill in the wrong direction? Yeah, I'm glad I don't make those kind of mistakes.  

   

[Highpower]

(04-09-2022, 10:31 AM)vtsteam Wrote: Willie, I think I will permanently secure them together. I thought about welding or brazing, but I don't want to heat.

The Loctite appealed to me -- seemed like a good and neat one. I have some Loctite 620 for bearing retention and steam crankshaft building. Seems like that would hold permanently -- the threads are pretty fine and it's a big area.

I wouldn't especially be fond of heat myself either. I would guess there is about a 90% chance of the sleeve retainer compound alone being successful, barring any heavy cuts or snags. When I built one of my competition uppers for high power matches I didn't want to drill into the Krieger stainless barrel (stress changes) to use the standard taper pins for attaching the front sight base. I glued it on with 609 sleeve retainer instead. It has not moved one iota from it's fixed position ever since. Still, I would want a couple of pins in a boring head situation serving as a mechanical backup all the same since it has some horsepower behind it.

[vtsteam]

How about the combo of Loctite alone AND running in reverse. Just speaking hypothetically, of course?

The "make a boring bar" is looking like the most straightforward (so to speak) solution for me. It involves using the boring head the way it was meant to be used -- a concept I'm just starting to think about adopting.

[Highpower]

(04-09-2022, 12:26 PM)vtsteam Wrote: How about the combo of Loctite alone AND running in reverse. Just speaking hypothetically, of course?

The "make a boring bar" is looking like the most straightforward (so to speak) solution for me. It involves using the boring head the way it was meant to be used -- a concept I'm just starting to think about adopting.

That is what I meant - running in reverse. With light cuts I would guess you might have a 90% chance of it working if using sleeve retainer alone. Again that is just a GUESS on my part. I could be wrong. I've never tried it myself. When I installed the sight base on my barrel I let it cure for about a week. I tested it's strength by wailing on the base with a rubber mallet and a plastic dead blow mallet to see if it would move. Not even a fraction of an inch which is what impressed the heck out of me.

I do agree making your own or purchasing an index-able LH bar would be the best way to go though. I should do the same myself actually.

[vtsteam]

Willie 20 years ago I bought a used Cuyuna ULII-02 ultralight plane engine, and needed to change the engine's steel cog belt drive pulley. Couldn't get the old one off even with a puller. I left the puller on stressed up as much as I dared. I'd douse it with WD-40, tap around it with a soft hammer every day. Didn't want to heat it.

Eventually I was dousing and banging on it once a week. Then after a time occasionally whenever I remembered. It lived in the basement. Five months later it let go with a loud pop, heard all the way upstairs, the pulley and puller had flown off and landed on the floor.

The reason it was so tough? Loctite in the taper bore, I discovered.