Wedge type QCTP

[stevec]

I just ordered a wedge type BXA set from CDCO. $161.00 +/- Cdn.
I know I was planing to make one but I'm too impatient, and now I can compare the BXA piston type to the wedge type.
I hope to mill up a bar of toolholders and get both my lathes set up for the nifty-ness of QCTP.
Will report in upon arrival.

[EdK]

Steve,

Here's my story on the piston versus wedge type QCTP. I started out with the piston style on my current lathe and it worked OK. I didn't like the feel of how it locked the holder to the post so when Enco had the Phase II wedge style on sale with free shipping I decided to get one and then sell the one I did not want to keep. I can tell you, I definitely like the feel of the wedge style over the piston style by a long shot. I have no evidence as to whether it holds the tool holders any better than the piston style but to me the wedge style just feels like it locks the tool holder in place much better. So I sold the piston style and have been very happy with my decision. When a friend of mine, yes I do have a few, bought the exact same lathe that I bought he also got the same wedge style Phase II QCTP. He hated it so he got the piston style and is a happy camper. Go figure.

A word of warning. Check the steel blank they send with the QCTP to be machined for the T-nut with a file. Some of them are made of hardened steel and I ruined a few end mills trying to mill one for someone before I realized what the problem was. Why they would make something from hardened steel that they know needs to be milled by the customer is a mystery to me.

Ed

[Highpower]

(09-07-2012, 06:44 PM)EdK Wrote: A word of warning. Check the steel blank they send with the QCTP to be machined for the T-nut with a file. Some of them are made of hardened steel and I ruined a few end mills trying to mill one for someone before I realized what the problem was. Why they would make something from hardened steel that they know needs to be milled by the customer is a mystery to me.

Ed

I went through the same thing (well, sort of...) with mine. Except I took them to a local machine shop and had them cut the t-nuts.

But this was before I had a mill, so not much choice. All I know is I got an earful from the owner when I went back to pick them up. "We had a **** of a time cutting these things. They are hard as *^$#*!*#*&!!!!!!!!"

Well.... you're the professional machinist. You should have known that!

[Kaoma]

Hi Ed, will post pictures of my lathe soon. Also need some help with a few things, soon to be posted.

[Wawoodman]

I had the same issue with the T-nut on a QCTP from CDCO. I couldn't do a thing with it, and thought it was me/the mill/the cutters/the vise.

Wound up getting one from a fellow I met on the forum.

[big job]

I guess this subject is all about it "depends". My steady eddy S.B. 9A I bought the
AXA piston type from WT tools for like $150 >reason WT was down the street and
I could afford it. Allthough made across the pond it works perfectly, and the T Nut
two pieces 3/8 flatstock drilled and tapped (end of that problem). Now the "depends"
part, this lathe will not hog cuts measured with a yard stick no can do. My SB 10
still runs the lantern good enough, now my Greaves Heavy 20, no way in hell will a
piston will do that, it needs a big big wedge and thats big big bucks. I have made a
T nut so the AXA will go on the big lathe but only for large work that wont chuck up
or lenght wise of the S Bends, but I dare not cut more than .015 or this lathe will rip
it or shred it to pieces. We do a lot of brass bushing on the SB with piston and I think
its not a bad match for smaller lathes. just my thoughts

[dalee]

Hi,

I prefer the wedge type over the piston myself. It might not matter so much in a home shop. But when you start doing .200" as a finish cut, you notice the difference. I also get irritated when the piston pops out when I change tools because I bumped the handle. Though truthfully, I made myself a round QC post that works very well for me.

I think the reason the tee nuts get hardened is to make the threads last. As you loosen and tighten the post to tweak it around, over time the threads will wear and may get pulled and damaged if left soft. Harden them a bit and chance of damage is lessened.

dalee

[EdK]

(09-07-2012, 11:53 PM)Kaoma Wrote: Hi Ed, will post pictures of my lathe soon. Also need some help with a few things, soon to be posted.

Hi Danny,

I'm glad you started posting. I've been patiently waiting for you to come up for air.

Danny is the one that got the wedge style and hated it so got the piston style and loves it.

Ed

[Highpower]

That's ok Ed. We won't hold it against him.

Danny!

[stevec]

(09-08-2012, 08:07 AM)dalee Wrote: I think the reason the tee nuts get hardened is to make the threads last. As you loosen and tighten the post to tweak it around, over time the threads will wear and may get pulled and damaged if left soft. Harden them a bit and chance of damage is lessened.

dalee

I'm pretty sure the rod through the post shouldn't be turning in the "T" nut. It should be the nut on top, the one some of us nuts keep misplacing the wrench for.