Wedge type QCTP

[Kaoma]

Hi all, I am Danny from Phoenix/AZ and have a metal turning problem :). Here is my lathe, not used a lot lately since I was very busy with work, planning to get back to it when is cooling off here. You will see my tool holder, I like it a lot, I can cut 0.0005" and repeat with no problem. After the saddle was replaced (bad original part) the cross slide is smooth and very precise. Ed has seen the pictures, cutting small parts and BB shafts is no problem. In the pics you will see the mods I have done, most recent one is adding threaded holes to the tail stock base to install wipers...tired of cleaning under it with each pass. Speaking of wipers, I need some help with making some sort of reinforcement plates to sandwich the rubber since is sticking out and not rigid. If interested, let me know and will post/sent more info and drawings of what is needed.

[rleete]

That lathe is far too clean!

[f350ca]

WOW that lathe is clean. Its people like you that make me hesitant to post pictures of my equipment. Nice lathe Kaoma. On the tailstock wipers, my lathes have only came with them on the front, where your likely to get swarf. There is no easy way to get oil under the tailstock, so leaving them off the rear will get lube under it when you pull it back.
Can't see any oil in the headstock sight glass. Maybe thats your secret to clean. My old Colchester is typical English (sorry guys from across the pond) it oozes oil out of every orifice, no seals anywhere, keeps the chip pan lubed. The Summit leaks oil out of the apron on the floor, when the puddle dries up I know it needs more added for the auto oiling.

[dalee]

(09-08-2012, 01:41 PM)stevec Wrote:

(09-08-2012, 08:07 AM)dalee Wrote: I think the reason the tee nuts get hardened is to make the threads last. As you loosen and tighten the post to tweak it around, over time the threads will wear and may get pulled and damaged if left soft. Harden them a bit and chance of damage is lessened.

dalee

I'm pretty sure the rod through the post shouldn't be turning in the "T" nut. It should be the nut on top, the one some of us nuts keep misplacing the wrench for.

Hi,

Yeah, that's the theory. Things happen though. I think the biggest danger is pulling the threads in the nut. When you can't find that wrench and grab that 16" crescent wrench and proceed to over-tighten the nut, that's when a bit harder tee nut may save the bacon. And I stand guilty of doing that myself.

Over all, for the home shop, it probably doesn't matter whether hard or soft. We aren't going to be so hard on them.

dalee

Edit to add: Get some chips and cutting oil on that fine looking lathe! You're making me look bad!!!!!

[DaveH]

Kaoma,

Very nice
I think it really belongs in a showroom

DaveH

[Kaoma]

Just checked, the oil is right above the top red line on the headstock (would have posted a macro pic but I guess I reached my MB limit, can not add any more pics). Ask Ed, he saw pics of the lathe dirty, takes a loooooong time to clean it, and I do it after each job. Most of my tools, even after years of use look like new (mental problem). I got that way long time ago when told about tools to "use it, clean it, put it back in the same place you got it".

[doubleboost]

Try not to forgett lads all lathes were like that at one time
The tool post stud should be locked in to the tee nut
I remember mine was very hard to machine
I made a handle for it (to stop me misplacing the spanner)


John

[stevec]

I've survived surgery by doctors with dirtier tools than yours.
I should caution you however, machines that clean may fail pray to
microbial infection and will not have any self developed immunity.
I'd offer to "immunize that mill but I guess the logistics would be too expensive.

[stevec]

See, John's lathe, in it's degree of filth (by comparison to Kaoma's) probably has it's immune defences in force.

[doubleboost]

Hi
Lads
I find that using a good cutting fluid helps to keep the lathe clean & rust free
It is always given a hoover down after every session


John