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The following 3 users Like Pete O's post:
f350ca (11-08-2017), Mayhem (11-08-2017), Highpower (11-08-2017)
My tractor refurbishment continues to occupy all of my days off as well as all of my workshop. The current piece getting all the attention is the front axle- need to overhaul the kingpins and hubs so I can remount the front frame so I can rehang the engine so I can install the flywheel so I can check runout before I install the clutch......
The kingpin bushes on the left-hand side were in horrible shape and I could not drive the top one out. The shaper came to the rescue, I used a V-shaped slotting tool to cut through one side of the bush, somehow without even realising the bushes are split on one side, I fortuitously made the cut directly opposite the split and the bush virtually fell out in two pieces.
Lathe (n); a machine tool used in the production of milling machine components.
Milling Machine (n); a machine tool used in the production of lathe components.
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(10-18-2017, 09:45 PM)f350ca Wrote: Wanted some additional tool holders for my QCTP. Machined a 12 inch long blank to cut blocks from.
Is that a Hardinge HLVH U have there Sir Greg ??
aRM
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(11-08-2017, 03:50 PM)aRM Wrote: (10-18-2017, 09:45 PM)f350ca Wrote: Wanted some additional tool holders for my QCTP. Machined a 12 inch long blank to cut blocks from.
Is that a Hardinge HLVH U have there Sir Greg ??
aRM
Close aRM, an HLV, the predecessor to the HLVH. Slightly narrower bed and you have to hand crank the speed. Still a lovely machine to run.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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The following 2 users Like pepi's post:
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I know this is just some cut steel. it was done using a Nothern Tool band saw, the blade is Lenox.
Damn nice finish, making a new clamp for the steady, that popped cause to much torque and pot metal.
How great are our machines..... we can fix anything
Greg
Magazines have issues, everything else has problems
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Pepe I have the harbor freight band saw which is supposed to be pretty much the same and I have to agree on the finish. I have been very satisfied with mine since I got it a few weeks ago. Have made hundreds of cuts with mine and all is well so far.
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Yes they are the same, tweak them and they make a nice true cut. May I suggest if you do not want to spend the $$ for a Lenox blade.
Take an internet ride over to the Northern tool site. Look for the replacement blade they sell for this saw, it is USA made good quality. I've used them for many years, just wanted to up grade.
I bought the Lenox for my vertical band saw and noticed an improvement, so naturally the horizontal got one.
Oh another might want to check out, open the gear box scoop out the sludge. Replace it with rear end gear oil 90W. Then there is the little problem, of the saw wanting to fall on its side when moving. Just widen the track of the wheels, taken care of.
Greg
Magazines have issues, everything else has problems
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(10-18-2017, 09:45 PM)f350ca Wrote: Close aRM, an HLV, the predecessor to the HLVH. Slightly narrower bed and you have to hand crank the speed. Still a lovely machine to run.
Yes indeed. Fine machines. We had a copy of the HLVH, a British made KL1 which we sold some years ago. Still crying over that loss. And one of the finest Machines to cut Threads on, which we never got a chance to.
aRM
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The following 1 user Likes Highpower's post:
EdK (11-09-2017)
(11-09-2017, 08:32 AM)pepi Wrote: Oh another might want to check out, open the gear box scoop out the sludge. Replace it with rear end gear oil 90W. Then there is the little problem, of the saw wanting to fall on its side when moving. Just widen the track of the wheels, taken care of.
Greg
Good advice on cleaning out the gearbox and changing the oil. But you do need to be careful of what type of oil to use because of the brass / bronze parts inside. I choose to use Mobil SHC634 synthetic in my 7x12 saw.
Willie
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So I see this spot on the floor, the second time in a row, same puddle. Takes a week to show up after driving. Not the shock, is gear oil, smell test confirms no need to taste.
To far in from the backing plate to be the bearing to axle tube seal, also no oil tracing on the inside of the tire.
Remove the rear end
on the gurney
On the operating table, see a wet spot. Patient has a crack in the axle tube, left side in photo. Upper corner where the shock and lower link fixture are attached, bleeding out.
Get the dermal like a dentist start to open the weld, and get to the crack. Working on that for a while getting to good metal. Grab the welder and run a new bead, on the inside.
After a short recovery time, rear installed.
A good time was had by all (the standard Navy POD event response)
Greg
Magazines have issues, everything else has problems
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The following 3 users Like Highpower's post:
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Nice find Greg. A rather unusual occurrence in a rear end. (Depending on how much HP is being delivered to the final drive of course.) 
Reminds me of a Honda Odyssey that came back to the dealership several times with a complaint from the owner of a coolant leak. Three other techs tried different "repairs" but it kept coming back. So then they gave it to me...
I found it only leaked after the engine reached a certain temperature. The coolant dripped from the bottom of the transmission bell housing. It took awhile but I finally traced it back to the top of the aluminum V-6 engine block (underneath the intake manifold) at the rear of the engine. The coolant would fill up a small valley in the top of the block, then spill over the back of the block and run down into the trans housing. All out of sight because all the coolant was hidden under the intake and between the engine and transmission.
Long story short - some ultraviolet dye added to the cooling system revealed that the coolant was seeping through a porous engine block casting. No visible cracks at all. The owner got a new engine block under warranty and I got a few days of banging my head against the wall over it. 
Willie
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