Todays Project - What did you do today?

[f350ca]

Wish eBay was as easy up here. Very little listed in Canada and cross border shopping isn't what it should be with free trade.
Its been a good lathe Stan. Very heavily built, as you say holds tolerances well, would have no qualms buying another.
Finished up the block for the nuts. The one is a press fit with taped pins to lock it. The other end has two spring loaded pins that hold it from turning once you set the preload.
Think I have the shaft straightened enough to use with only the fixed nut to give some wiggle room. Its was bent in the middle and at the base of the thread so didn't try just shortening it.

[PixMan]

(12-19-2014, 02:07 PM)dallen Wrote: installed the parts that Ken (aka Pixman) made for me.

heres a shot of them on the rifle that I've been tinkering with for the last couple of months. Still got a ways to go before I can prove it works.



DA

Looks good! Got any shots from other angles? Do the 1/4-40 adjustment screws fit OK and does it move smoothly back & forth?

I loved working on those parts, a good exercise for my rusty skill set.

Ken

[dallen]

(12-19-2014, 03:53 PM)PixMan Wrote:

(12-19-2014, 02:07 PM)dallen Wrote: installed the parts that Ken (aka Pixman) made for me.

heres a shot of them on the rifle that I've been tinkering with for the last couple of months. Still got a ways to go before I can prove it works.



DA

Looks good! Got any shots from other angles? Do the 1/4-40 adjustment screws fit OK and does it move smoothly back & forth?

I loved working on those parts, a good exercise for my rusty skill set.

Ken

here's a couple more shots of the sight front and back





DA

[PixMan]

That's pretty sweet looking, David!

What I would do with the end of the pins sticking out is either one of two things:

1) Measure the distance, push them out and shorten accordingly, press back in.
2) File down close, then stone to flush.

Even seeing it assembled I can't really figure out why the print called for that 120º feature on the cylinder that carries the 1/4-40 lateral (windage?) adjustment assembly. It would seem more appropriate to have something like that on the bottom tab to act as a stop for when you flip it up for use.

[Mayhem]

(12-19-2014, 03:53 PM)PixMan Wrote: ...a good exercise for my rusty skill set.

Rusty my arse!

[dallen]

(12-19-2014, 07:14 PM)PixMan Wrote: That's pretty sweet looking, David!

What I would do with the end of the pins sticking out is either one of two things:

1) Measure the distance, push them out and shorten accordingly, press back in.
2) File down close, then stone to flush.

Even seeing it assembled I can't really figure out why the print called for that 120º feature on the cylinder that carries the 1/4-40 lateral (windage?) adjustment assembly. It would seem more appropriate to have something like that on the bottom tab to act as a stop for when you flip it up for use.

Sure looks a heck of a lot better then one of them little buckhorn sights they put on top of the barrel.

I have no idea what that bump is for, I'll ask the guy that loaned me the print.

As for as it being on the bottom to act as a stop, that's what the little dip that's in the mounting tab is for there is a spring that engages that notch when you flip the sight up into position. I could see it on the bottom to act as a stop for when you lay the sight down flat cause it flips back over the top of the stock.

the two pins well I know a guy that's got access to a surface grinder which will make it a lot easier too get them down without messing up your work. As far as pressing them out, the top one is in pretty tight.

DA 

[PixMan]

I would be VERY cautious about doing it that way!

In making it I found that it does not easily grip on a magnetic chuck and needed to be on a magnetic transfer parallel and blocked in too. Another thing I found on the surface grinder is that it is a very soft steel in the annealed state and susceptible to "hogging in" with the wheel. If the guy doesn't have the right tooling, experience and grinding know-how, that part will be trashed in a flash.

[dallen]

(12-19-2014, 08:16 PM)PixMan Wrote: I would be VERY cautious about doing it that way!

In making it I found that it does not easily grip on a magnetic chuck and needed to be on a magnetic transfer parallel and blocked in too. Another thing I found on the surface grinder is that it is a very soft steel in the annealed state and susceptible to "hogging in" with the wheel. If the guy doesn't have the right tooling, experience and grinding know-how, that part will be trashed in a flash.

in that case they may get filed down with some tape on the leaf to stop the file from marring the surface. He should know what he's doing he's been building classic guns for a long time and been a machinist for a long time, but then there's always that one time when things got butt up and stuff crashes. just thinking about it, it can't be done on the surface grinder using a Mag Chuck cause of the two bearings sticking out the side that would be on the chuck.

David

[f350ca]

Machined the new shaft to size on the small lathe. Another piece of mystery metal, it came from an aircraft manufacturing plant, quite hard as you can see from the finish. Horrible cuttings, long unbreakable strings that I couldn't get to curl at any speed or feed.
No need to instal the threads.

[PixMan]

I'm kind of surprised to see that it's not a left hand thread, so that should be easier to make.

Grind a HSS form tool to fit the existing threads and have a go at it? Or. if you have a brazed carbide in C5 or C6 grade, use that.