Todays Project - What did you do today?
(11-08-2014, 12:32 PM)awemawson Wrote: Get it red hot, pop it on to form the recess, tickle the wood with a sand blaster to remove the carbon, while you are there clean the butt piece as well. Job done and you can go out and shoot people :)
nice but your way only works if you own a sand blaster, and don't really care if you happen to ruin the stock and its gophers not people that I have a problem with Yikes
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! Tongue
Reply
Thanks given by: EdK
Yesterday sprayed oil under the jeep to try and keep rust at bay. Thank god for the car hoist. Today was going to do the truck, decided to check the brakes first, the rotors looked rough through the wheels. All four aluminum wheels were seized to the hubs, had to use a four foot length of 6x6 to beat them off (I hate aluminum wheels) The rear rotors are shot and one of the little shoes it uses for the parking brake had delaminated. The pads were all seized into the mounts and two of the booted sleeves the caliber moves sideways in were seized. The front weren't quite as bad but far from great, all the pads were again seized and one of the slides was seized solid. I know, sounds like poor maintenance but the trucks only 3 years old and 27,000 kms less than 17,000 miles. One of Fords better ideas. Get parts tomorrow and then I can spray it.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Reply
Thanks given by:
Yeah Greg, Ford seems to have a lot of those "better" ideas. To keep the wheels from sticking, put a piece of plastic wrap between the hub and wheel when you bolt it back on.

Tom
[Image: TomsTechLogo-Profile.png]
Reply
Thanks given by:
I usually coat the surface with anti seize, something the factory always forgets, (along with decent paint on the frame). Doesn't the plastic cut away when installing the wheel?
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
Reply
Thanks given by:
Got inserts in the mail that I'd bought on eBay last week, gave them a try. The cutter is a Walter F4042R.UW19.019.Z03.10, a 3/4" 3-insert 'end mill", and takes ADMT/ADHT/ADGT 10T3xx style inserts. I had gotten it about 6 months ago, never bought inserts because I had an equivalent Kennametal cutter that did have inserts. I sold if off because this one is a far newer and better cutter. Greater axial shear angle, greater radial rake angle for lower cutting forces. This is an important consideration on low HP machines like mine.

The inserts, Walter ADHT10T3PER-G88 grade WK10. Highly polished, dead sharp.
[Image: IMG_2482-r_zpseca43f6e.jpg]

The cutter, showing the angles. Axial shear angle a little harder to discern due to poor lighting conditions in my shop.
[Image: IMG_2480-r_zpsf10964cd.jpg]
[Image: IMG_2479-r_zps8f96ea56.jpg]
[Image: IMG_2481-r_zps052ff99c.jpg]

So I snugged it up in a 3/4" R8 collet, threw a piece of 6061 aluminum in the Kurt vice and took two cuts of .100" (2.5mm) deep. Cranked the spindle up to max 4500 rpm. I calculated that this was 883.5 surface feet per minute cutting speed. Looking to see what kind of finish I would get and knowing the limited HP (2), I then multiplied the RPM (4500) x the feed per tooth (0.003") x the 3 inserts for 40.5 inches per minute feed rate. In my machine control's "manual power feed" mode, the closest is 40.0 ipm, close enough.

The first pass was .25" wide, to check spindle load. No decrease in rpm detected. The second pass was the same .100" deep, but 0.375" wide, so half the cutter diameter. It just started sounding off some strain but didn't seem to slow.





The finish looked pretty darn good! I figure (using my surface finish comparator) that it's between an 8 and 12 Ra (microinch), though it may look a little rougher in the photos.
[Image: IMG_2487-r_zps6eb2c888.jpg]
[Image: IMG_2489-r_zps7d3b8e86.jpg]
Reply
Thanks given by:
Darren, it occurred to me that you have a 1-1/2" cutter similar to that one. Your cutter takes the smaller ADMT/ADGT.ADHT 0803xx type inserts, and those are also available in the same ADHT0803PER-G88 WK10 for aluminium. Keep your eyes on eBay for some, these cutters rock for finishes!

P.S. - I looked and found some in the coated grade WXN15, and the seller states in their listing that the item "Ships worldwide." They were about $35 US, plus shipping for a pack of ten and that's cheap.
Reply
Thanks given by:
still working on my little project

[Image: stock-work-4.jpg]
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

If life seems normal, your not going fast enough! Tongue
Reply
Thanks given by:
looks like it is coming along nicely Dave.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
Reply
Thanks given by:
Im learning to use my lathe - so im using Tom`s youtoube vids to exercise... made a few bungs with threads etc yesterday evening. Now im looking for something else to make that involves a little bit more, any suggestions? :)
I was thinking about making a set of stacks for an Hilborn injection, but seems like materialcost will not make it worth it.
If done this way maybe, but i dont think i have the skills... looks cool though:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXu_16eZKnw
ironman, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2014.
Reply
Thanks given by:
(11-13-2014, 05:05 AM)ironman Wrote: Im learning to use my lathe - so im using Tom`s youtoube vids to exercise... made a few bungs with threads etc yesterday evening. Now im looking for something else to make that involves a little bit more, any suggestions? :)
I was thinking about making a set of stacks for an Hilborn injection, but seems like materialcost will not make it worth it.
If done this way maybe, but i dont think i have the skills... looks cool though:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXu_16eZKnw

How about this project from Tom's web site?

http://tomstechniques.com/micrometer-carriage-stop/

Not too difficult a project and you end up with a very useful tool.

Ed
Reply
Thanks given by:




Users browsing this thread: 61 Guest(s)