Silver soldering BS blades or Carbide?

[Tony Wells]

One of the first shops I worked in we used almost exclusively shop made or remade brazed bits. We had a ribbon of some kind, I don't know the alloy, but we fluxed it, planted the carbide blank in place and rosebudded it. Usually it stayed close enough to where we put it. Then we diamond ground it to what we needed. No carbide inserts in that shop at all. I have used regular flux covered brazing rods for that, making special boring or grooving bars by brazing old inserts onto round stock. I usually put a little Gebhardt (sp?) Ultraflux paste on it as well. Seems to work for me.

[dallen]

(07-12-2012, 06:44 PM)krv3000 Wrote: HI don't no if i have posted this tip before on hear mack up sum silver solder past get a large peace of clean paper a sheet of news paper is OK and get a clean file and file sum silver solder rod once you think you have filed a nuff of the rod on the paper get a clean container to put the filings in to next thing is to save all them little bubble packs you get tablets in give them a good clean gnaw mix up sum solder flux then put in the silver solder filings and mix well then get the bubble packs and put sum silver solder mix in each don't fill right to the top get a anther container and mark it up well then put the bubble packs in side of that then put the container in the freezer's then when you want sum solder just pop out 1 or 2 of the frozen tablets they will defrost Farley rapidly

I like this idea, but why not just put the whole works in a screw top bottle to keep it from drying out

[krv3000]

hi as promised sum pics of sum tools with silver soldered tips on hi dallen well the flux can go off IE gose moldy even in a well seeld contaner

[Rickabilly]

A few years ago I bought maybe the handiest machine ever, a 16" throat variable speed vertical bansaw with compound table and woo hooo, a Blade welder !!! simply a great thing, it has a little shear set on the end for trimming the blade stock, a setting jig and welding and normalising buttons as well as a little grinder for cleaning up the flash, it even has a little 12V work light built in.
What can I say, I no longer fear broken blades in the middle of the night I just weld em back together, and have been known to splice two old blades together to make one good'n when in a pinch.

Best Regards
Rick

[stevec]

Rick, does your blade welder work on bi-metal blades?

[Rickabilly]

Hello Steve,
It sure does, it is a resistance welder so like a spot welder that welds the very edges of the ends of the blade together,
even though the machine it is fitted to has a maximum blade size of 12mm or say 1/2" the welder will do blades up to 3/4" and I use it to make blades for all of my other bandsaws and even used it once to make wire loops for another project.

I will take some shots of it when I next get a chance for all to see.
Best Regards
Rick

[stevec]

Rick, I had one that was a bit "Mickey Mouse" it used a car battery as a power supply and had a little jig to align the blades but it didn't work well and someone told me the bimetal wouldn't work because of the dissimilar metals involved. I suspect it was the inferior design and cheapness of the device.
I think "Bandit" is very apt in the name of this P.O.C.
       

[Rickabilly]

Hello Steve,
did it actually join the blade and then the blade would just snap at the join when you tried to use it or did it not even join the blade?

and how did you operate it it doesn't seem to have the required buttons or blade preload adjustment but otherwise should work on bimetal,
if you think about it there is no dissimilar metal issue, as the alloy change is consistant across the section of the blade so you are only ever welding carbon steel to carbon steel and HSS to HSS.

but you need to aneal the blade post welding.

Best Regards
Rick

[stevec]

Rick, as I remember it would "join" the blade but wouldn't last very long after grinding the joint. If I remember, it would break just tensioning the blade even if it survived mounting on the saw. I don't remember anealing the blade, maybe it was way too brittle?
What anealing procedure would you recomend Rick?
The only "button" it had was the black button seen at the bottom of the box in the first pic.
I know nothing of "blade preload" . One of the little clamp/holders slid on the two round bars to bring the ends together and then you pressed the black button.

[f350ca]

Steve, your POC brand welder looks like it should have worked, but sounds like they forgot the annealing step. The few welders I've used welded the blade then you slid the clamps away from the weld if I remember, then passed a lower current through the blade to bring it to annealing temp.
The battery should give plenty of welding current.