Wabeco F1200

[Mayhem]

I'm with Greg here - I'd bolt it to the wooden bench and use shims if needed.

[DaveH]

Wong,

Is the bench top about 75mm thick? 2 times 30mm plus a space.


DaveH

[Wongster]

Hi Greg & Mayhem,

I just remembered that I've drawers underneath. I'll see if I can bore the holes at the bottom layer if there is no other alternatives. May just create a platform with steel plate as the top to mount the mill on. The legs would likely be made up of adjustable feet to level the top surface.

Hi Dave,

I'll measure the thickness tonight and report back.

Just bought a vise. Couldn't resist the urge after the guy in the shop showed it to me. A Taiwanese brand that I've not heard before. 4" jaws which opens up to 60mm on swivel base. At GBP100+, not much of a risk I think. The buying bug hit me since last week. I've been spending. For to be more prudent as the market seems to slow down a little.

Regards,
Wong

[Mayhem]

Wong, I doubt that the drawers will cause an issue and I would still bolt it to the bench.

Unless you are planning on using a level to set up some work pieces, I don't think it is imperative that your mill is perfectly level on the bench top. Using shims to fill any gaps when bolting it down will be sufficient, so that you don't place any stress on the base. The important thing is having the column perpendicular to the table in both the x and y axis, and (unless I am completely mistaken) the bench top isn't going to influence this.

Where are the pictures of the new vise?????? Is it a Vertex brand? That is the only affordable brand name vise obtainable via my local supplier, so I will be interested in your thoughts and comments if it is the same make.

[DaveH]

Wong,

This table/platform with adjustable anti vibration feet - the steel plate needs to be quite thick to resist the bending caused by the weight of the mill. It does seem as it could be more trouble than it is worth.

Drilling 4 holes in the bench top is perhaps the best way.

DaveH

[Wongster]

Hello Mayhem, how do you know its a Vertex?



Got home at almost 10pm and did a quick clean up of the vise. I find using a used toothbrush with WD40 very effective in removing the dried grease.



The edges at the bottom are rather sharp. Didn't realize that till I get a light scratch on my brand new table... I file down all edges at the bottom to removed the sharp edges,



and have it mounted onto the table with the clamping kit.



The jaws opening up to max 60mm.



The Y axis handwheel interfering with the vise handle. Don't they make shorter ones for mill of this size?



The test report it came with:



Might as well take the photo of the test report that came with the mill.





Can't comment much on the Vertex vise at this stage. Also, first time using such vise. Been using the Toolmaker vise (or read it named as grinding vise) on my Sherline. I don't see any witness mark or pointer on the swivel base or the vise to read off the graduation from. Too late to do anything now. I may have some time on Wednesday night to play. Wife going for church meeting. Will try not to fix any night appointment to do further test cut. Problem is, I do not have a suitable collet to fix up my indicator to square up the vise. Will be ordering the ER16 collet chuck with MT2 shank after this post. The 2 shops I visited today only have straight shank ER collet chuck.

Will report back hopefully soon.

Regards,
Wong

[Wongster]

Dave,

I just measured the thickness of the bench top. It is only 50mm. I remembered being told that the top being made up of 2 x 30mm thick ply with space in between and the 30mm ply is made from 2 pieces of 15mm ply stick together. Didn't realize that the carpenter made the adjustment without my knowledge. In my excitement, I didn't check...

To tell you the truth, I'm scare like sxxt to drill through the bench top. Tried drilling through some laminated plywood for my sherline base, the laminate cracked badly. I'll rope in my friend, who is a contractor for the work done in the shop, to help me with this.

Just for thought; a Sherline member did this for his mill. Workable here?



Regards,
Wong

[DaveH]

Wong,

Not sure what bit I am looking at, the mill tool plate or that part nearest the camera?

Is it the mounting of the mill on the "outriggers".

DaveH

[Wongster]

Dave,

Apologies. It's the 2 bars below the base. The bar along the base is for the horizontal conversion (relocating of the spindle for horizontal milling).

Regards,
Wong

[TOM REED]

I would save the steel plate for future projects, the mill base bolted to the table top with either bolts or lag screws will hold it securely enough. This is less than 200 lb mill, it would probably work well bolted to a kitchen table top, it is much smaller than my RF45 clone which needs a fairly substantial base. Enjoy it it will make very accurate pieces, it looks to be about 10 X better than the Shureline mills. Should last your lifetime and probably at least 1 more if taken care of. I know what the spending spree is all about,
I have spent many thousands on equip for my shop just hope now to live long enough to enjoy it. I am very envious of lots of the projects many build on this type of equip I just hope that I can get my skills refined enough to do the same. enjoy, I look forward to reading your posts. tom