Kondia FV-1 Head disassembly

[Mayhem]

Thanks Rick. I don't have any cleco's or other pins to try. I did try some small gauge screws but there is nothing to stop the little bugger spinning. I am considering using locktite and thin shaft to see if that will grip it.

[Rickabilly]

ok, how about this,
measure the bore size of the hole, and turn a pin out of copper or "chewy" aluminium. make it just a whisker larger than the hole, tap the pin into the hole and pull the piece straight out?
The copper or soft ally will grip the part but not damage it and worst case scenario you can drill it out easily, but more likely when you pull it out it will stretch some shrinking the diameter a little.

Best Regards
Rick

[ScrapMetal]

Two things come to my mind for this.

The first thing I might try would be to use a piece of straight high-carbon wire (piano wire) or a sliver of spring steel about six or eight inches long. It's width should be no greater than the clearance between the piece you want to get out and the wall of the hole it is in. Make a very short 90 degree angle on the end of the wire/steel strip. Now you can insert it between the rod and the hole and feed it in until you reach the back of the rod. Use the "hook" you made to get behind the rod and pull it out.

The second possibility would be to use a round steel bar roughly the same diameter as the hole. Use the lathe to "core out the end of the bar to a size slightly smaller than the rod you want to remove. Put a couple of slits in it, kind of like and emergency collet. Lightly force it over the end of the rod and gently pull it out. This only works if there is enough "meat" on the little rod to get a hold of.

The third thing to try, yes I know I said "two" , would be to whack it with a BFH! Hey, at least it gives a temporary release of aggression.

Hope that helps (well, maybe not the hammer part),

-Ron

[Mayhem]

Rick and Ron - Thanks for the suggestions, I'll give them a try on the weekend.

Ron - I have been so tempted to reach for the BFH on several occasions but thus far I have been able to control the urge!

[stevec]

Darren, looking back at the drawing and at your pics, it appears there's an internal thread in the hole in the casting, probably for the #413-reverse trip ball lever screw. Could you make up a screw with that thread, drill it through with an appropriate tap drill. then screw it in against the, so far obstinate #167 reverse trip ball lever, jamming it to allow you to drill said Part #167 deep enough to tap it for an extracting screw? You'd probably have to redrill the "jamming" screw to clear your tap and "re-jam" #167 in order to tap it.

[Mayhem]

Thanks Steve, that's not a bad idea. I will add that one to the list of things to try before the aforementioned BFH or some black powder!

[Highpower]

(07-09-2012, 06:13 AM)Mayhem Wrote: ..... or some black powder!

I want video!

Do you know any panel beaters? (Auto body men?)
I'm thinking a stud welder might do the trick.

Just thinking out loud....

Willie

[Mayhem]

I had thought about a slide hammer but not being able to get any purchase on the ball has thwarted that though. My other thought was to find another FV-1 and swap heads whilst no one is looking. That hasn't come to fruition either.

[f350ca]

I like the black powder method.

[Rickabilly]

Hmmm,
Black powder, ;o)

A stud welder can be improvised by use of a MIG, no wire of course, just unhook the feeder mechanism,
take an old copper tip and drill it out to suit a nail, slide the nail into the tip, point first

Turn all of the settings to maximum turn the gas on flat out as well (just to help with cooling)

If you have a short gas lens use it(lens is the correct name for the tubular shroudy thingy on a MIG or TIG), the nail head needs to stick out past the lens, if you dont have a short enough one get an oldy and cut it short,

If you have a "stitch" setting set it to 1 second pulses, if not you will need to pull the trigger for about a second.

Now simply push the nail head against the sheet where you want to tack the stud and press the trigger for about a second, more or less time on the trigger as you see fit and there you have it a stud welder.

Not a good idea to do this a lot but it will get you out of trouble, just leave it a minute or two between studs and it won't do any harm to your MIG,

Of course weld stud after stud all day and you will cook your transformer.

So this method is also suitable for the removal of small mechanical parts like the thingy in question here.

Who knows might be worth a go.
Best Regards
Rick