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Kondia FV-1 Head disassembly
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07-02-2012, 07:06 AM
I have no idea Steve. It stops appears to hold the screw on which the micrometer quill stop runs into the casting on the head. Looking at the Bridgeport J series head, it looks the same, so I was hoping one of the BP guys may know.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
07-02-2012, 07:09 AM
If there is a spring in there against the ball chances are it is broken and out of position holding everything in place against its will so to speak. Try tapping the sides with a mallet to jog it back. Cover the hole or you might get a surprise.
"Billy G" 
07-03-2012, 06:58 AM
OK - here is a very short video of the ball trip lever moving when I move the quill stop micro screw. It is evident that the lever is engaged with the screw. I apologise for the quality of the video - I was trying to hold my phone, not block the light too much and move the screw! I just noticed that the first time I played the video in YouTube it was completely black. I hit replay and it then worked fine.
Here are a couple of pics that will help put things into perspective in terms of what we are looking at:
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
07-03-2012, 07:14 AM
Below the threaded hole, is that just a bolster sticking down or it it removable?
"Billy G" (07-03-2012, 07:14 AM)Bill Gruby Wrote: Below the threaded hole, is that just a bolster sticking down or it it removable? That is the feed reverse trip plunger, into which the ball trip lever all engages. When the quill return stop hits this it moves upwards, in turn, moving the quill stop micro screw. If I understand it correctly, this then disengages the quill feed.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
07-03-2012, 07:31 AM
Hello All,
For my £0.02 I say compressed air, direct the stream at the edge of the ball and hopefully enough air will get through the clearance gap to push the ball toggley thingy out towards the air stream from behind, fiddle with air pressure if it doesn't work right away, also spraying a stream of WD40 in behind the toggle will also help as the solvent (it doesn't have to be WD but most people have it on hand) forms a low pressure seal around the ball everywhere except where the high pressure stream of air is breaking down the surface tension. This can even work on loose fitting dowels and especially the hollow ones, if it is hollow at all, it looks like it might have either a through or centre hole, so if it is hollow, pump grease through the hole and then using a close fitting pin punch push it through the centre hole, this uses the grease as a hydraulic fluid, the pin punch becomes a piston and the ball thingy a much larger piston, given the differential in size it could have a 10:1 ratio so a 5 pound push on the pin will force the part out to the tune of 50lbs. I hope this helps. Best Regards Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
07-03-2012, 07:44 AM
Rick - Thank you. I will give that a go on the weekend when I am in the workshop next.
Willie - Thank you. The link helps a lot. If the Kondia is the same as the Bridgeport (looks very close to me) I now have a better idea of what I am looking at. Cheers!
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
07-07-2012, 11:33 PM
OK - well I tried all suggestions, as well as some others I found on the web but the little bugger refuses to come out. The closest I got was when I gently tapped a small E-Z-out into the hole in the centre of the lever but it pulls out before coming free.
More thinking 
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
07-08-2012, 06:41 AM
Hello Darren,
How deep is that hole in the centre, could you use a "Cleco" or one of the threaded type "skin pins" to grip inside the hole, the clecos are only spring loaded so will likely pull out but the threaded style skin pins might be able to be tightened enough to grip. Best Regards Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
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