Kondia FV-1 Head disassembly

[dallen]

use an open end wrench you'll only leave it on there once,

DA

[stevec]

I've NEVER left the wrench on the drawbar of my Tree mill.

Oh yeah, my Tree mill doesn't have a drawbar.

Steve

[Mayhem]

Well I trammed the head and vise and managed to get less than 0.0005"  I need to make some T-bolts for my vise, as the factory ones didn't give me enough adjustment.  So, at present, the LH side has the factory T-bold and nut and the RH side has one of my M12 T-nut, stud and nut in place.

(04-08-2015, 07:03 AM)stevec Wrote: Ed, where's that "don't like" button.

I found it Steve:

   

[Mayhem]

Given that I have to make at least two different drawbars (the 1/2-12 seems to be only on the home made tooling that came with the mill), I designed them so that I could colour code them:

   

I had always wondered why there was a relief cut between the taper and the straight section at the end of the NTMB30 tooling and I found that it comes in very handy for colour coding using thin strips of heat shrink.

   

[PixMan]

Great idea on the color coding. I'd also stamp the thread designation into one of the flats of the hex on the drawbars just in case the paint gets flaked off or too dirty to see.

[stevec]

C'mon Ken, "dirty" you outa know that ain't Darren's style

[PixMan]

(05-01-2015, 07:13 PM)stevec Wrote: C'mon Ken, "dirty" you outa know that ain't Darren's style

Alright, I'll fess up.

I'd stamp them because I have a set of stamps that I've never had the opportunity to use since my dad bought them about 7 years ago.

[Mayhem]

(05-01-2015, 08:21 PM)PixMan Wrote: Alright, I'll fess up.

I'd stamp them because I have a set of stamps that I've never had the opportunity to use since my dad bought them about 7 years ago.

Now that isn't true - I gave you the option of stamping your initials on the feed trip bracket that you made for this mill.

[PixMan]

(05-03-2015, 03:48 AM)Mayhem Wrote:

(05-01-2015, 08:21 PM)PixMan Wrote: Alright, I'll fess up.

I'd stamp them because I have a set of stamps that I've never had the opportunity to use since my dad bought them about 7 years ago.

Now that isn't true - I gave you the option of stamping your initials on the feed trip bracket that you made for this mill.

You did? Oh my, I missed that opportunity! Of course my initials on it wouldn't mean anything to anyone except you, and only for as long as you have your wits about you.

As a good friend of mine is so fond of saying "In a hundred years none of this we do today will make a bit of difference." To which I typically reply "More like next week."

[Mayhem]

Ed's recent post on machining 4140 leads me to a quick question regarding the machining of the hex drive end of the drawbar.

I currently have two lathes at my disposal.  My 18 x 60 and my friends 10 x ?  My lathe has a top speed of 425 rpm, whist his tops out at 1600 rpm.  My spindle through hole is 2-5/8", his is 1-1/16"

My options are to feed the 2m long bar of ø30mm through my spindle and turn each of the parts individually, parting them off once completed or turning a piece long enough to get the required number of parts out of down to ø27mm and then finishing them to size on his lathe.  Whilst typing this I have realized than I have 3mm diameter in which to experiment with DOC etc and see what finish I can get.  If I'm not happy on my lathe, I can then move to the faster one.  Unfortunately neither have auto feed.

I have a ER32 collet set and a hex collet block, which will allow me to quickly and accurately index the round stock to mill the hex.  However, my largest ER32 collet is ø20mm, which is too small to accept the (turned to diameter) stock.  In the absence of a dividing head, my plan is to assemble the drawbar and then use a ø13mm collet to index it off of the 12.7mm shaft. 

I'll clamp the large diameter in the vise and use my angle plate as the surface against which the hex collet block registers.  I'll also set up a stop, so that the part is machined from the same reference point for all six sides.

Does that make sense?