Kondia FV-1 Head disassembly

[PixMan]

Considering what you folks down under have to pay for tooling, those seem to be very attractive prices for some high quality material.

Nice!

[Mayhem]

(04-07-2015, 10:52 PM)PixMan Wrote: Considering what you folks down under have to pay for tooling, those seem to be very attractive prices for some high quality material.

Nice!

Yes - I was expecting a lot more.

[stevec]

(04-07-2015, 08:36 AM)Highpower Wrote: Just don't call me Steve.... 

Ed, where's that "don't like" button.

[PixMan]

(04-07-2015, 10:00 PM)Mayhem Wrote: <snip>
I'm thinking of using 1/2" ground for all 3 drawbars and then turning down the diameter for a M12 thread.  The tolerance on the ground bar should be good for the 1/2-12 and 1/2-13 drawbars.  I would then use the hex bar for the wrench end.

They have a minimum $50.00 order, so I may pick up some 25mm round stock as well.  Given that I am going to probably have more use for round stock than hex, having some 25mm stock might be a better choice.  The also have off cuts...

That's a good plan. You would only have to turn the last 25-30mm of it for the M12 thread.

Getting the 25mm stock would allow you to mill nice hex heads for the bars, and you could choose to pin the heads on or weld. Out of the 25mm stock you could get what is a "common" hex size for the drawbars over here, 11/16", or 19mm, up to 21mm or perhaps 22mm. What you chose depends upon what size round shoulder fits down inside the spindle housing to "draw against", hopefully not much larger than 25mm. Leave about 6 to 8mm of diameter and mill the hex above that for whatever length of hex you want sticking up.

The length of the hex on the drawbars is debatable. I have a couple of drawbars for my machine and both are the 4" (100mm) long hex that allows you to change the tool without retracting the quill. I've yet to try it out of force of habit. Moreover, I'm perilously close to just chopping the excess length off the hex because there's a certain range within the quill travel that it just rattles around in the vari-speed housing and making a LOT of noise.

I know a lot of folks appreciate being able to change tools without raising the quill, I think I'll manage the old-fashioned way.

[Dr Stan]

Ditto on milling a 19mm or so hex on some 25mm round stock for the wrench.  I recommend a pin instead of welding the two parts together.  I've made drawbars by pinning the two pieces together using a .125" (approx 3mm) soft pin as an extra shear pin to help reduce damage from a wreck.

[Mayhem]

Thanks for the tip on the soft pin.  I would have gone ahead and used a roll pin.

Today I took some measurements, and I was a little surprised to see that the top of the spline section of the quill (I'm sure it has a proper name) doesn't poke all the way out of the top of the pulley housing.  I'd not really taken much notice of this but I checked the drawing and it is suppose to be that way.

   

Based upon the measurements that I took, I have drawn up my draw bar (pdf below) for your criticism.


  Drawbar.pdf (Size: 99.02 KB / Downloads: 15)

The 5mm wide ø21.94 section will be modified according to the specs of the thrust washer that I can get to sit on top of the quill.  The reason for the current diameter, is because this is what is needed for the 19mm hex.

Oh - when trying to figure out the correct diameter for a given hexagon, I found this website, which has a nice little calculator:  http://www.had2know.com/academics/hexago...lator.html

[PixMan]

You'll want clearance between the body diameter of the draw bar and the Ø 26,50 bore. I suggest making it 26mm even.

All of these type of milling machines are the same way with the seating surface below the top of the housing, so yours is no different.

[DaveH]

(04-14-2015, 09:28 AM)Dr Stan Wrote: I've made drawbars by pinning the two pieces together using a .125" (approx 3mm) soft pin as an extra shear pin to help reduce damage from a wreck.

Stan,
I don't understand how that will work as a shear pin on a draw bar.

DaveH

[Mayhem]

Thanks Ken - I did notice that when drawing the spindle/pulley but neglected to go back and change the drawing.

[Highpower]

(04-21-2015, 04:15 PM)DaveH Wrote:

(04-14-2015, 09:28 AM)Dr Stan Wrote: I've made drawbars by pinning the two pieces together using a .125" (approx 3mm) soft pin as an extra shear pin to help reduce damage from a wreck.

Stan,
I don't understand how that will work as a shear pin on a draw bar.

DaveH

I suppose it's possible if one forgets to remove the drawbar wrench before turning on the mill. (Reverse direction)....