Kondia FV-1 Head disassembly

[PixMan]

Sounds like a no-brainer to me: Bolt on the new one and use it with a 10mm drill to transfer location to the machine base, tap in the new 10mm roll pins and done.

BTW, you need a ball on the end of you quill feed engagement clutch. Don't use anything heavier than the plastic ball that was originally there, you don't want excess weight to change the dynamics of engage/release.

[Mayhem]

The feed lever and the plastic knob were long gone when I got the mill. When engaged, the level hangs free. I did make a very small metal knob for it, in the same style as the large ones.

[Mayhem]

OK - first fly in the ointment 

The casting on the new yoke is thicker where it bolts to the saddle.  The extra mass prevents the yoke being installed.  I'm not sure what other mills are like but on the Kondia, the Y axis nut goes in 90° out of alignment and it then rotated so it can be fitted correctly.  The new nut cannot be rotated.

   
   

Looks like I need to get it milled or bust out the angle grinder...

[DaveH]

(02-04-2015, 09:32 AM)Mayhem Wrote: Looks like I need to get it milled or bust out the angle grinder...

Darren, I think you have an unhealthy 'thing' for angle grinders 

Or is it the sparks you like

DaveH

[dallen]

why not take the oil lines off first

DA

[Mayhem]

Unfortunately it's not the oil lines.  The yoke fowls before it gets that low (no matter how I try).  The top of the original one sits into the dovetail on the rear one enough to provide clearance.  The new one is too thick to do that.  This pic shows the difference:



Initially I didn't think it would be an issue, as the actual machined surface that bolts to the saddle is in the correct position (relative to the rest of the yoke). In fact, I thought a bit extra meat would be a good thing!

[dallen]

you look at it from that prospective, its time to mount it up in the mill and cut some off the offending high spots.

DA

[PixMan]

He can't mill a part for the mil....without a milling machine.

Anyone around you that has one and could do you the favor, Darren?

.

[Mayhem]

I remembered yesterday that I have a shaper! I also remembered, after putting a motor on it, that I have no idea how to run a shaper! I really need to spend some time to figure out how to set the stroke. I followed Shawn's directions for setting the stroke on his Douglas shaper and either I have not understood or mine is different. Or I cocked something up when I put the ram back on...

After finally getting a stroke that worked, I placed my milling vise on the table and with the help of a 1-2-3 block as a jack, I was all set to go. I got down to about 1mm from my target and the tool screw loosened and hit the yoke, moving it in the vise. No damage done but I ran out of time to set it back up and finish. Hopefully, I'll get some time next week to finish it off.

I was looking at the locking handles for the gibbs and in particular, those for the knee. The Kondia has a cam operated lock on the front of the knee as well as two screw type on the side of the knee (directly over the gibb). I was going to make new ones but I noticed that the old broken one has a hell of a lot of thread on it, which sticks out a long way. The reason is to clear the column, otherwise the handle fowls. The two table locks are also much longer than needed. I don't know about the saddle lock, as that had been replaced with a bolt. I'm leaning more to buying adjustable style handles and wondered if there may be any reason not to use these? Keeping it 'original' is not a concern, given the 'custom' parts made already...

[EdK]

(02-07-2015, 11:51 PM)Mayhem Wrote: ... I'm leaning more to buying adjustable style handles and wondered if there may be any reason not to use these?  Keeping it 'original' is not a concern, given the 'custom' parts made already...

No reason not to use those Darren. One of the first mods I made to my mill was to replace the head locking screws with that type of handle.

Ed