Kondia FV-1 Head disassembly
Glad I could help. I'm sure many others here would do the same if they had the machinery capacity and tooling.
Reply
Thanks given by:
Today Kondia sent me the print for the quill stop micrometer screw, so I could locate the missing hole and drill it. My only concern now is whether or not this part changed, as the print is dated 1976.

The part that Ken so generously made didn't fit, despite being made accurately from the print sent by Kondia. That print was dated 1973 and I believe my mill was manufactured in 1969 or 1970, hence my concern.

I'm hopeful that I'll be OK. Although I now need to buy a 6.5mm reamer, as I'm sure the hole has to be fairly accurate. However, all that appears next to the dimension is "al montaje", which Google tells me is Spanish for "assembly". It is hand written, so I could be reading it wrong but no other combination of possible letters produced anything legible.

Anyone here speak Spanish?


.jpg   Capture.JPG (Size: 21.58 KB / Downloads: 125)
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
Reply
Thanks given by:
Darren I'd be curious to see pics of the "quill stop micrometer screw" and where it mounts on the Quill or head.
Does that unthreaded portion where the 6.5mm hole appears fit into an existing hole ? If so is the existing hole 6.5mm?
the 6.5mm hole seems large relative to the unthreaded portion of the screw.
It looks to me that the unthreaded portion of the screw is about 9mm dia. if so, a 6.5mm hole would leave only 1.25mm on each side!
Providing of course the drawing is to scale.
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
Reply
Thanks given by:
Hi Steve,

Here is a picture taken form the drawing in the manual, from when I was having trouble removing the trip ball lever. The quill stop micrometer screw is the long vertical screw, with the section requiring the hole shown in the right-hand side of the red circle.

The non-threaded end is ø10mm. I assume the hole in the plunger is also 6.5mm but I didn't think to compare. The position of the centre of the hole is what I needed to know.

   

Here is a pic from another FV-1

   
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
Reply
Thanks given by:
Darren, I'm assuming the top drawing is a cutaway side view and the bottom pic is facing the operator?
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
Reply
Thanks given by:
Darren,

That design is exactly the same on Bridgeports. The hole in the screw accepts one end of a little "dumbell" shaped lever and the other end moves a plunger to trip the feed lever. It will trip the feed lever when the screw is moved up or down. You should be able to check the location by installing the screw and transferring the hole location to it with a transfer punch. Once that is accomplished, you can verify whether the print location is correct.

[Image: images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ3su4lIiZlUwHzWC3C90A...jHCkOfubxA]

Tom
[Image: TomsTechLogo-Profile.png]
Reply
Thanks given by:
Darren,

From the photo of the other Kondia posted, it sure looks like that guy's feed trip bracket had also failed at some point and been welded up. Given the really crappy "Zamak" cast magnesium/aluminum material they used, it's no surprise.

I'm anxious to get going on Version 2!

Ken
Reply
Thanks given by:
Steve - you assume correctly.

Tom - if you recall, that little "dumbell shaped" reverse trip lever was busted and the source of considerable frustration, as it doesn't have a threaded hole. In fact the hole is smaller than a BP which I think is why they bend and don't break. Having said that, I purchased a spare!

What I don't know is whether the bottom end sits its circlip on the casting or does it sit above? I know you can adjust the lever that sits below it but there is only so much adjustment. Annoyingly, I cannot find the bent one that came out and I think it may have gone in the scrap bin that was weighed in and cashed out!

Ken - it sure does look to be a weak point. I think one made out of a solid chunk of steel will be so much more robust Big Grin
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
Reply
Thanks given by:
Found another part that doesn't fit as it should Bash

The hadnwheel coupling houses the detent spring and ball for the quill feed engagement plunger. When I fit mine to the shaft, the hole doesn't line up. I couldn't get a good picture of it but this is what it looks like looking through the hole that holds the set screw in place:


.jpg   Capture.JPG (Size: 15.23 KB / Downloads: 77)

The set screw is hollow to accept the springs and has to screw down flush to the surface of the coupling, otherwise it will bind on the feed trip bracket. As it is off centre, it locks the detent ball, preventing the feed from being engaged.

I took it off and screwed a bolt into the hole and I see the problem. The hole has been drilled at an angle, not straight (to the centre). I can't rotate it, as there is a key that fixes the coupler to the shaft. I've alerted Kondia to see what solution they offer. I'll probably just end up making a new one.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
Reply
Thanks given by:
I don't really get the concept in "2-D". Pictures work well for illiterates like me.

Try again?
Reply
Thanks given by:




Users browsing this thread: 16 Guest(s)