Kondia FV-1 Head disassembly

[DaveH]

Looking very smart Ken

DaveH

[PixMan]

I've got 7mm and 16mm reamers on their way to me, courtesy of a friend from over on the PM website. The 7mm is really too small for me to bore only because I don't have pins to gauge it, and the 16mm bore too deep as I wouldn't get it done without chatter from a boring bar long enough to get the 60mm depth.

They probably won't arrive until Monday, so I'll get as far as I can with the project until then.

[Mayhem]

I sure am glad that you are such a nice guy and have lots of friends Ken Please pass on my gratitude.

I thought you kept a set of gauge pins for yourself when you had them in abundance some time back. Or were they all imperial?

Just out of interest - I cannot see a 7mm hole on this part but I could (probably) be reading the drawing incorrectly. Is it the hole for the lever pivot? If so, I read that as being ø5H7, which I think is 5mm. Judging from the other bores, the H7 appears to be a tolerance of some description, as these are dimensioned as ø16H7 and ø14H7.

EDIT: I just found an online calculator which puts the three H7 hole min/max sizes as follows:

5mm: 5.00 to 5.012
14mm: 14.00 to 14.018
16mm: 16.00 to 16.018

[PixMan]

Oh man, you are 100% correct, it's a 5mmH7, not 7mm!

I'm going to have to buy a 5mm reamer ASAP, unless I find one locally. I'll make some calls because as you say I've got a lot of friends here with shops.

As for that load of pins, they're all gone. They were all imperial sizes, over 700 of them in Class XX. I had no place to store them at the time so I traded for a smaller pile of tooling I could actually use and store, from a dealer in Vermont. My goal is to (eventually) get a 3-set collection of Class ZZ 2" long pins in cases, from .011" to .500". The sets here run .011" to .060", another from .061" to .250", and .251" to .500". I'm resisting getting the Chinese made ones in favor of American made Starrett, Meyer, Deltronic or similar.

EDIT: What I think I can do is just drill it out with a 3/16" (0.1875") drill, then "ream" with a No.9 (0.1960") drill. That should have it come out right within the 5,0H7 tolerance. If you have a 5mm reamer, Darren, I'll just leave it for you to ream at assembly.

[Mayhem]

Ken - I'm happy for you to drill them. 6mm is the smallest reamer that I have but I could always order a 5mm one. I wouldn't have thought that the pin for that kick out lever would have to be such a close tolerance.

[PixMan]

I got a couple hours in the shop today, raining all day so no lost seat time on me motorbike.

I counterbored the holes for the M6x1 mounting screws, milled away the top surface to the correct heights for the feed engagement/disengagement lever and the 38mm counterbore for whatever they call that black round thing used to support the forward/neutral/reverse rod. Of course you can see where the 2-flute 7/16" solid carbide end mill I used for milling the counterbore overcut on the plunge. My machine's limitations are part of it, because the hole milling cycle moves to the outside first, you plunge to depth and them it mills with an inward spiral. Sorry about that, but it won't be seen after assembly.




I used corner rounding cutters to try and get the profiles somewhat like the print, but without a 3-axis control and 3-D modeling CAM system it's not possible to duplicate a casting's smooth blends and contours. I'm still going to try and get some of the 1.5mm corner radius going around the 25mm radius and into the angles from the 60mm width to the 25mm radius. My machine's control was spitting back error codes, so I'll try again tomorrow or Sunday.

When I get that done I can then make a 14mm pin to slide into the bore I'm using as a datum (most dimensions are taken from the center of it.) With a pin in that bore I can flip it 90º and get the 16mm bore rough drilled and a starter bore done to guide the 16mm reamer that's on its way to me. I'll mill the 6mm wide slot for the lever and then ream the 16mm bore.

[Mayhem]

Thanks Ken - I really appreciate all your time and effort. I feel guilty for taking you away from your bike but since it is raining there (as well as here), I feel a little better.

I'm not worried about the blends and contours as they do not affect the function and take on a bit more of an industrial look As for the overshoot mark, it will be hidden and even if it wasn't it wouldn't matter.

[EdK]

A thick coat of enamel paint will blend the contours quite well.

Ed

[PixMan]

It was bugging me that I couldn't get the 1/16" corner rounding cutter to walk around the angles and big radius, so I went back to the shop after dinner and got 45 minutes of time on it. Success! I also milled the 60mm width at the top to match the bottom part I'd milled earlier, then did a little filing and deburring to see how it cleaned up. I think it's going to be pretty good, though not as perfect as I would have wished.




One question for you, Darren: On the print there's a 10mm wide slot at a 45º angle with 4mm corner radii, from the 38mm counterbore through the wall of the 25mm radius and at the depth of the 38mm counterbore. I think it's just there to give you a place to pry the round black ring off when you need to take it apart. Since I don't have either an 8mm nor 5/16" ball mill, would you be OK with me using a 1/4" ball mill I have? That would leave about a .144" wide flat at the bottom rather than a 2mm one. This OK?

[Mayhem]

Thanks Ken. I'm really enjoying seeing the progress.

(07-04-2014, 09:23 PM)PixMan Wrote: ...One question for you, Darren: On the print there's a 10mm wide slot at a 45º angle with 4mm corner radii, from the 38mm counterbore through the wall of the 25mm radius and at the depth of the 38mm counterbore. I think it's just there to give you a place to pry the round black ring off when you need to take it apart. Since I don't have either an 8mm nor 5/16" ball mill, would you be OK with me using a 1/4" ball mill I have? That would leave about a .144" wide flat at the bottom rather than a 2mm one. This OK?

Let me take a look at the parts and the drawing and get back to you. I've just installed the quill skirt that I had made and I will probably be able to assemble this part to double check everything. I don't think the BP mills have that feature either but I'm unsure if Kondia has it there for a reason. Access to a screw perhaps?

I'll confirm...