Kondia FV-1 Head disassembly

[Mayhem]

I'm afraid I'm not at liberty to divulge that information Tom...

[DaveH]

What's happening?

DaveH

[Mayhem]

I got an email H&W Machine Repair and Rebuilding in Indiana and they sent me a picture of a BP quill skirt with dimensions:

   

The dimensions in white are those specified by Kondia). As you can see, the diameter is +.050" compared to the measurements I got from Kondia. Whilst I could trim equal amounts of the ends (if needed to maintain the correct gap), do you think this would cause problems with regards to shifting the tab locations? The tabs are -.013" in width but there is no measurement for their length.

It is probably going to be cheaper for me to get this fabricated locally then buy/ship from the US but since I am in no rush I have the time to contemplate such things!

[Mayhem]

Ed - I remembered to take a photo of my mill, showing the need for a quill skirt. The first pic shows the quill in the up most position.

   

Pic 2 shows the quill extended all the way down. Notice the gap that appears (red box).

   

Pic 3 shows a shot from inside the head, showing the open slot (red arrow).

   

[PixMan]

Darren,

I started working on the part you need this weekend. Nothing but fits trying to get my Alliant/Prototrak to follow a programmed path. If this thing was a simple G-code CNC, I would have been done with the profile (external periphery shape) in 10 minutes. Four hours of messing around, back & forth to my home PC where I had downloaded the CAD software you linked to, and still getting error messages.

Not to worry, I do NOT give up easily! I'll be back at it tonight, determined to get this thing made. It's going to be a number of different setups, and the one part I'm not sure I can replicate is the contoured radii around the 16mm bore. Wish I had 3-axis CNC for that! Corner rounding cutters don't really fit, so I may be doing a lot of hand grinding and compromised shape machining.

[Mayhem]

Sorry to cause you grief Ken.

You're referring to the 13.5mm radius shown in section A-A - yes? If so, that is purely cosmetic and I don't care if it is square. I don't want you to waste your time on this just to make it look like the factory casting. In fact, I can then say it is a custom part

[PixMan]

Yes, that's the shape I'm not going to be able to do easily. I'll make it "squarish" and use the largest corner rounding cutter I have that will fit in there.

Also, note how close the counterbores for the M6 mounting screws are to that Ø16mm bore. If my new counterbore tools cut oversize at all, they could break through. I'll be careful.

[Mayhem]

The added thickness of making it a little more square should reduce the risk from the counterbore. I can always reduce the head diameter of the screws if you need to make them under size.

[PixMan]

It'll be fine with the squarish shape, and the holes I put in today are accurately located. No worries, no screw modification should be required.

Here's a few photos, starting with...what I started with. I coated it with red Dykem layout fluid, then figured out where the center of the 14mm bore should land. I scribed lines with my height gauge, swung an arc with my smaller (antique) Starrett divider and it worked out fine, eventually. You can see .010" deep evidence of the machine not following my initial toolpath.


Here I've got the main profile near finished, and roughed out for the rear cylindrical locating boss.


Done for the 3 hours I could afford today after work, the rear mounting boss finished, with it's 1mm x 45º chamfer. Also got the two 6.5mm holes in, and a starter hole for the 14mm bore.


In the next day or three I hope to finish the 14mm bore, mill a little more off the lower "tab". I will then square up a block of aluminum, mill the inverse contour of the part and 43mm bore into it, and add a pair of M6x1 tapped holes to secure it. Then I counterbore the top side of the part for the M6 screws and fasten to the fixture plate. That plate should allow me to finish the top side features, but also stand it on it's 90º side for doing the 6mm slot and 16mm bore.

Sorry for the substandard photos. I'd left my cameras at home in my bike's tank bag and top box, so cell phone photos will have to suffice for today.

[Mayhem]

Thanks Ken

After the 13 hour day I just had, these pictures certainly made my day. I wouldn't have known where to even begin with this job and the metal you chose definitely looks better than the zamak casting Kondia use.

I got a quote today on the quill skirt, so it won't be long before this old girl is up and running.