Kondia FV-1 Head disassembly
#91
I need a bearing lock washer like those for the cross slide on my lathe. Mine is for a 15mm I.D. bearing. I have two bearing nuts up against each other on the tail end of the screw, and it simply doesn't work. I need to replace the keyed lock washer but am having no luck finding one.

My plan is to start on your replacement quill feed engagement lever casting next week. I have material, as long as you're OK with 1018 CRS.
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#92
What is the O.D.? I'll look for one for you. 1018 CRS is fine for my needs.

Update: I'm pretty sure the casting is zamak, so I'm good with 1018.
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#93
(04-20-2014, 09:02 AM)PixMan Wrote: I need a bearing lock washer like those for the cross slide on my lathe. Mine is for a 15mm I.D. bearing. I have two bearing nuts up against each other on the tail end of the screw, and it simply doesn't work. I need to replace the keyed lock washer but am having no luck finding one.

...

Here you go Ken.

http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section13/mb/

Ed
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#94
I've got to go into town on Tuesday I'll check at the local bearing place and see if they have any.
dallen, proud to be a member of MetalworkingFun Forum since Apr 2012.

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#95
I'm going to replace the bearings and I've been advised to get double metal seals on the top bearing by a guy that I have been in contact with in QLD, who use to service these mills. I am going to ask him about the correct means of greasing the bottom bearings but I thought I'd ask you guys for your thoughts as well.

When I pulled the spindle, there was grease packed everywhere. I've included a section from the drawing of the head below as a reference. As these linear contact bearings don't have seals, I'm guessing the space between the two (the brown space) would be packed with grease, but what about the space above these (blue space) - should grease be packed in here as well?

   
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#96
(04-20-2014, 09:29 AM)EdK Wrote: Here you go Ken.

http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section13/mb/

Ed

Got the lockwasher(s) I ordered from J.W. Winco in the mail yesterday and installed one on my cross slide. I ordered two in case I ever need a new one.

They were GREAT to deal with because they shipped them via US Postal Service Priority Mail Small Flat Rate Box for FREE! Total cost for the two, nothing!

Unreal. I don't know what I did to deserve that, but I appreciate it.
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#97
(04-24-2014, 07:33 AM)Mayhem Wrote: I'm going to replace the bearings and I've been advised to get double metal seals on the top bearing by a guy that I have been in contact with in QLD, who use to service these mills. I am going to ask him about the correct means of greasing the bottom bearings but I thought I'd ask you guys for your thoughts as well.

When I pulled the spindle, there was grease packed everywhere. I've included a section from the drawing of the head below as a reference. As these linear contact bearings don't have seals, I'm guessing the space between the two (the brown space) would be packed with grease, but what about the space above these (blue space) - should grease be packed in here as well?

Do you have a lubrication guide for the machine, something often found in a manual? I've never serviced one at that level, but I think on Bridgeports one of the oil cups feeds those bearing with light spindle oil. I don't know if grease is a good idea.
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#98
I do have a lube guide but it doesn't specify the spindle. There is only an oil cup for the back gears, unlike the BP that has one for the spindle as well. I extract the pages from the manual and post them later, as I don't have Acrobat Pro on this PC.
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#99
Attached are the pages from the FV-1 manual regarding lubrication.


.pdf   FV-1_Lube.pdf (Size: 307.71 KB / Downloads: 19)
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I found some time to make a little progress on the mill. First, I finished the quill feed worm engagement lever and then I sorted out the quill lever handle and pinion shaft hub.

Drilling the hole in the shift crank and then transferring this to the shaft that engages/disengages the worm took some time and careful planning to ensure that the hole in both parts were perfectly located through the centre. The planning was worth the effort and the selector works as it should.

I did buy a new pinion shaft hub when placed my order with Kondia but I have no means of securing the 6mm detent ball, so I thought I would try to resurrect the old one. You may recall from earlier posts that the original handle was lost and a bolt was welded in its place. I cut off the offending bolt and re-drilled the hole. The I split a piece of copper pipe and inserted that into the bore, so when I welded the hole up, there would be no weld protrusion into the bore. I used the old pinion shaft hub sleeve to hold the pinion shaft hub so I could turn down the diameter and face the hub. The hub has two pins that lock into the sleeve, so this provided the drive. Once done, I drilled and tapped the hole to take the handle. I forgot to take pics of this but I did find two showing the state of the machine when I first got it. You can see the "custom" quill handle and the state of the hub:

   
   

The quill lever handle is supplied straight from Kondia but requires a bend in it in order to clear some of the other handles/levers on the head. I wondered why they sent me a straight one and then realized that they couldn't guarantee the final fit with the pinion shaft hub.

Here is the original hub after some TLC with the handle (bent) and attached. The new hub is in the second picture:

   
   
   

Here it is in position with my mate looking on enthusiastically! You can see the worm feed lever as well in this pic:

   

The hub and handle will get a coat of black paint.

Now just for comparison. Here are 2 pictures of the pinion shaft hub sleeves (old and new) side by side. I still don't know how you can damage one of these so badly Bash

   
   
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