lapping arbor

[Bill Gruby]

Thank you, now it's easy to follow. Super explanation.

"Billy G"

[f350ca]

Lapping the bore on the mill will correct the alignment to bring it perpendicular to the flywheel. True he leaves it floating, in so doing he isn't correcting the position of the hole only the direction. Doing it on the lathe you won't be able to hold the flywheel perpendicular to the lap. The small bearing area of your bushing (assuming its square) won't support the wheel, it could wobble on the old hole as the lap turns. Any lapping I've done and that isn't a lot, was done with a lap softer than the bore, so the grit adheres to the lap and cuts the bore. I expect the flywheel is cast which probably is softer than the pin (probably hardened) so the pin will cut more than the bore, or the grit will simply roll around in the gap, which I expect is why he has to keep locating the grit. I'd make an aluminum or brass lap with the correct taper and do it in the mill after the mill was indicated as he says, proper term is tramed I think.
No written or implied guaranties but thats my take on it.

[TomG]

(06-22-2012, 08:18 PM)B34VD Wrote:

(06-22-2012, 08:12 PM)TomG Wrote: The lap in your set up will tend to follow the tapered bore rather than correct it's misalignment. It looks like this lapping operation is normally done on a vertical mill with the spindle being dead perpendicular to the table. I don't know if you've seen this site, but here's a guy demonstrating it:

Cannonball and the Beast

There is also a ton of other info on flywheel alignment on the site.

Tom

I have and the problem with it that he indicates the bore of the taper but then does not fixed the wheel to the table. It's allowed to wander and seek it's own true.

If all you want to do is correct misalignment then the wheel can be allowed to float and the technique in the video would work fine. The only reason that it would need to be fixed to the table would be if you needed to change it's position.

Tom

[Highpower]

I'm guessing that set up horizontally on the lathe like that, it's going to change the position of the taper due to the weight of the flywheel bearing down on the arbor?

I would think that squared up and done vertically might to be the safer way to go.

[ScrapMetal]

Okay, I've been a motorhead all my life and I'm currently working on rebuilding a couple of Harley Shovelheads but I've yet to rebuild a bottom end like you are working on with this Indian.

That being said, lapping like that might help you true things up depending on how much it was off by, maybe (not an expert and not familiar with that procedure), but, why wouldn't/couldn't you make a fixture to hold both halves of the flywheel in position and simply do a line-bore?

-Ron

[Bill Gruby]

This may be a dumb question but how do you line bore two tapers at the same time? Not trying to be funny either.

"Billy G"

[ScrapMetal]

(06-23-2012, 06:33 AM)Bill Gruby Wrote: This may be a dumb question but how do you line bore two tapers at the same time? Not trying to be funny either.

"Billy G"

You don't! I had a "senior moment" and didn't take in to consideration that they are both tapered.

Now that I think about it a bit, I suppose it may be possible to create a "double-ended" reamer/cutter that could be put in place of the pinion shaft, the two sides properly aligned, and then "expanding" the cutter to cut both tapers at the same time. 'Course that doesn't help this situation any.

Just ignore me,

-Ron

[Bill Gruby]

Sorry, but ignoring you would be harder that line boring a double taper Ron.

"Billy G"

[TomG]

Wow...tough crowd.

[Bill Gruby]

Nope, just friends.

"Billy G"