A Carriage Stop for the Atlas Lathe
#1
Here is a link to the plans for the Carriage Stop I designed and built for my dad's Atlas lathe.

http://www.metalworkingfun.com/showthread.php?tid=530

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#2
Tom,

Very nice carriage stop Smiley-signs107

Smiley-eatdrink004
DaveH
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#3
Hi
Tom
A very usefull bit of kit
Thanks for the plans Smiley-eatdrink004Smiley-eatdrink004
John
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#4
Thanks guys.

I'd like to point out that the prints are a later revision than what is shown in the pic. I flipped the reference mark to the right side of the dial to make it easier to read and moved the key to the bottom of the stop to hide the key slot.

Tom
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#5
Now that's a nice part and those changes are really well thought out
Best Regards
Rick
Whatever it is, do it today, Tomorrow may not be an option and regret outlasts fatigue.
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#6
(06-22-2012, 06:10 AM)Rickabilly Wrote: Now that's a nice part and those changes are really well thought out
Best Regards
Rick

Thanks Rick.

I haven't built the new revision but I know others who have. Hopefully there aren't any gremlins in the design. The biggest thing is to verify the thickness of the ways on the lathe because I milled and scraped them on my dad's lathe so they are slightly thinner than stock.

Tom
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#7
Tom,

Can you describe how to do the thimble hash marks?

Dan
Collecting tools for 30 years.
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#8
Apart from saying "nice job Tom" I wanted to say that the sight of the Philips head capscrews holding the apron to the carriage brought back memories of my first lathe, many years ago. (they were replaced with hex socket capscrews the first time I had to "drop" the apron.)
Busy Bee 12-36 lathe, Busy Bee Mill drill, Busy Bee 4x6 bandsaw, Homemade 9x17 bandsaw, Ad infinitum.
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#9
(06-22-2012, 09:07 AM)DanH Wrote: Tom,

Can you describe how to do the thimble hash marks?

Dan

Sure Dan.

The lines were cut on my vertical mill, using the quill as a sort of shaper or slotter, sort of like I did in my Steven's Favorite build thread over in the Gunsmithing section.

Grind a threading tool except make the angle 30º instead of 60º and leave the point sharp. Mount the tool sideways in a boring bar, put the boring bar in the spindle of the mill and lock the spindle. Put the thimble in a dividing head, indexing head or mount it on a rotary table to space the divisions. Set the depth stop for the different length lines and go to town. I probably did the long ones first, re-set the depth stop and filled in the rest. Be sure to use some cutting oil on the tool to keep from snapping off the sharp point.

Tom
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#10
Thanks for the explaination Tom.
Collecting tools for 30 years.
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