Tooling question for RF-45 clone

[DanH]

I am thinking of getting a Phase II rotary table for my mill and would like recommendations on which size to get. I assume it would be between the 6" and 8" sizes but would like to hear from you more experienced guys.

DanH

[EdK]

(05-21-2012, 04:20 PM)DanH Wrote: I am thinking of getting a Phase II rotary table for my mill and would like recommendations on which size to get. I assume it would be between the 6" and 8" sizes but would like to hear from you more experienced guys.

DanH

Dan,

I got an 8" for my RF-45 clone. I was going to go with a 6" but was talked into going with the 8" instead by people that bought the 6" and wished they had gotten the 8". It's probably the biggest size that will fit on our mills comfortably. I haven't used mine a lot yet but it sure is nice to have when you need it. YMMV

Ed

[krv3000]

well theirs the rub Dave i wood go for the 8" as long as it doesn't restriket the movment of the mill as the old saying gos the biger the beter

[ETC57]

Dan,

I too would have to say 8", even on my small mill I find I almost never take it off!

Unless that is, I need the lathe.


   

Jerry.

[henryarnold]

I bought a 6" Rotary Table that is similar to a Phase II. I've used it for many projects but needed something bigger.
   

So I added a 14" x 3/4" aluminum plate. The plate is registered by a pin in the middle that fits into the MT hole of the table and bolts to the rotary table's T slots with recessed cap screws.
   

The plate was machined on the rotary table. I used the rotary table to machine the outside edge and all of the mounting holes. Now I can create any round or arced object up to 7" radius.

[DanH]

Thanks for the feedback guys. It looks like the 8" is the way to go. ENCO has a 10% off and free shipping this week so it's a good time to pull the trigger. They have 2 to choose from. One of them can be setup perpendicular to the table in addition to horizontal. The weight goes up from 80 lbs to 129 lbs which is not so good for my back but it also only costs about $10 more. What do you guys think?

DanH

[Highpower]

(05-22-2012, 11:00 AM)DanH Wrote: The weight goes up from 80 lbs to 129 lbs which is not so good for my back

DanH

That's why I have a 6 inch table.

Dan, I believe the free shipping from Enco is limited to less than 125 lbs.
Better check with them on that....

[EdK]

(05-22-2012, 11:00 AM)DanH Wrote: Thanks for the feedback guys. It looks like the 8" is the way to go. ENCO has a 10% off and free shipping this week so it's a good time to pull the trigger. They have 2 to choose from. One of them can be setup perpendicular to the table in addition to horizontal. The weight goes up from 80 lbs to 129 lbs which is not so good for my back but it also only costs about $10 more. What do you guys think?

DanH

Dan,

I think your weights are wrong. The horizontal only is 55lbs and the vertical/horizontal is 95lbs.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMKAN...&PMCTLG=01

I would definitely go with the vertical/horizontal one. It's much more versatile. YMMV

Ed

[DanH]

(05-22-2012, 11:34 AM)EdAK Wrote:

(05-22-2012, 11:00 AM)DanH Wrote: Thanks for the feedback guys. It looks like the 8" is the way to go. ENCO has a 10% off and free shipping this week so it's a good time to pull the trigger. They have 2 to choose from. One of them can be setup perpendicular to the table in addition to horizontal. The weight goes up from 80 lbs to 129 lbs which is not so good for my back but it also only costs about $10 more. What do you guys think?

DanH

Dan,

I think your weights are wrong. The horizontal only is 55lbs and the vertical/horizontal is 95lbs.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMKAN...&PMCTLG=01

I would definitely go with the vertical/horizontal one. It's much more versatile. YMMV

Ed

Your right Ed, I was looking a the weights for the table set.
Dan

[Hopefuldave]

henryarnold Wrote:I bought a 6" Rotary Table that is similar to a Phase II. I've used it for many projects but needed something bigger.
So I added a 14" x 3/4" aluminum plate. The plate is registered by a pin in the middle that fits into the MT hole of the table and bolts to the rotary table's T slots with recessed cap screws.
The plate was machined on the rotary table. I used the rotary table to machine the outside edge and all of the mounting holes. Now I can create any round or arced object up to 7" radius.

Like Henry, I've only a humble 6" table (plus a 4" tilting rotary, not used often but handy when nothing else will do!), but instead of an ally plate I've got a 12" faceplate that locates on a MT2 to 2" spigot (to fit the plate's centre hole) and bolts into the Tee slots through its centre boss - it was free from the scrap bin, the D1-4 internal taper was cut at very much the wrong angle and size! More like a D1-4.075, really... Being free and only hitting a max' of about 2 RPM with mad cranking of the handle, I'm happy to drill the odd hole here and there if the faceplate slots won't fit the work... I didn't want to go any bigger than the 6", as at the mo' all my milling (at home) is done on the lathe, any bigger and I wouldn't be able to get lathe and table centres to align if I wanted to, or get the tool above the table surface...

Dave H. (the other one)