Posts: 432
Threads: 27
Joined: Feb 2016
Location: Woodstock:GA
Getting ready to make a spacer/bushing, needs to have a keyway. Buying the tooling what should I look for, suggestions regarding type, teeth width of slitter are welcomed information.
What I have in mind for the tooling is a keyed arbor and slitter blade. The material is alum, can the same slitter and tooth count be used on different material HSS/ALUM. General purpose diameter, what cuts best and stays sharp. Thinking a 1/16 width could be sturdy and wont hog out to big of a cut.
Thanks in advance,
Greg
Magazines have issues, everything else has problems
Posts: 771
Threads: 48
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Using keystock, grind an edge on it and harden. It's what I have always used, and it holds up to all but the toughest steels.
Bonus is that the key fits perfectly, because it's made from the same stock.
Full of ideas, but slow to produce parts
Posts: 691
Threads: 14
Joined: Feb 2015
Location: Oakland, California
Is the key on the inside of the bushing, or the outside. Or both?
Posts: 432
Threads: 27
Joined: Feb 2016
Location: Woodstock:GA
The key slot will be along the length of the bushing, bushing will not be a sold circle looking from the end.
Greg
Magazines have issues, everything else has problems
Posts: 3,798
Threads: 184
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Farmington Hills, Michigan
Greg,
Why do you need a slitting saw to cut a keyway? I normally end mill mine.
Unless you are cutting an internal keyway, then you'll need a broach.
Tom
Posts: 432
Threads: 27
Joined: Feb 2016
Location: Woodstock:GA
Tom,
I was thinking a slitter would give me a tool that could be used for other machining as well, more vestal than the end mill...
However the end mill might just be the best option cost wise. Wait until I actually need a slitter for a specific purpose Buying one now, does not mean it will work for whatever later on....... Murphy's law rule #1.
Yup end mill is it .....
Thanks,
Greg
Magazines have issues, everything else has problems
Posts: 3,798
Threads: 184
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Farmington Hills, Michigan
(03-01-2017, 09:25 PM)pepi Wrote: Tom,
I was thinking a slitter would give me a tool that could be used for other machining as well, more vestal than the end mill...
However the end mill might just be the best option cost wise. Wait until I actually need a slitter for a specific purpose Buying one now, does not mean it will work for whatever later on....... Murphy's law rule #1.
Yup end mill is it .....
Thanks,
Greg
Just be sure to use an end mill that is smaller than the slot you need. Unlike a slitting saw, end mills will cut a slot larger than their diameter, due to flex.
Tom
Posts: 432
Threads: 27
Joined: Feb 2016
Location: Woodstock:GA
One last general question about slitter and the arbor, what brand arbor or arbors have a keyed mount that mount the slitter pictured.
s-l225.jpg (Size: 7.47 KB / Downloads: 66)
I've found that Bridgeport R8 has this arbor, are there other manufactures, or some ArborsRus.com, link anyone care to share?
Curious as to what may be out there...for knowledge. Ordered a set of carbide end mills, set of five 1-8 mm, banggood, 19 beans...
Greg
Magazines have issues, everything else has problems
Posts: 691
Threads: 14
Joined: Feb 2015
Location: Oakland, California
It's been ages since I bought my slitting saw arbor, but I recall that even a US-made arbor was pretty cheap. I chose a single-size (as opposed to the multi-size arbors) because I thought it would be more concentric. 1" is a pretty common size, and has served my needs well. It's a 3/4" straight shank, although I would have preferred an R8 shank.
Posts: 3,798
Threads: 184
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Farmington Hills, Michigan
The following 1 user Likes TomG's post:
EdK (03-02-2017)
Greg,
You can make a better slitting saw arbor than you can buy. The style shown in the pic is easy to make and allows you to get very close to a ledge on a part without interfering. This type doesn't use a key and in fact, you should never use a key for a slitting saw anyway because it will shear under load. The keyed ones you see with the 1" shank are for wider cutters or gangs of cutters.
Tom
|