Dummy D1-4 Nose Spindle ER25 Collet Chuck Pt. 1

[DaveH]

I decided to make a copy of the nose spindle – just the taper. This will be my gauge for the internal taper of the adapter plate. I thought this is the best way for me to “measure” the taper in the adapter plate.
   

The first thing I decided to do was to orientate the compound slide to give the correct taper.
Using a DTI to get it as close as possible. A little tedious but with patience and care it is possible to get a zero reading along the taper. Until you tighten it down that is!!.



So that done put the chuck back on. I’m using some aluminium to make the taper gauge, mainly because I didn’t have any steel of a suitable size.

A quick face.



I then turned down a “boss” 2.5005inches dia x 10mm deep, I then proceeded to cut the taper, using the compound slide.



Now it starts to get a little tedious again and messy.
I need something to gauge the taper, I chose my 4 jaw chuck, I could have used the face plate – a lot lighter, only thought of that now!
It also necessitated the removal of the locking pins from the chuck.



Now it is just a case of seeing how well the taper fits. Using engineers blue (Prussian Blue) and moving the compound slide accordingly.
It has been pointed out that if the taper has been "zeroed" no adjustment should be necessary, and using the four jaw or face plate to check the taper is not really required.
Then I got this – seems near enough.



I just cleaned up the outer diameter.



And that’s the taper gauge done.

Just have to get the engineers blue off my hands, face, glasses, and my brand new camera – tis’ messy stuff.

DaveH

[krv3000]

well dun dave

[f350ca]

Dave did you check the fit, of the four jaw to the spindle? If you were zeroed to the spindle taper why correct the fit to the chuck?
Greg

[DaveH]

Greg,

It was one of these odd things, that seem to happen. I have checked the four jaw chuck and how well it fit the the spindle nose.

I moved the compound ever so slightly and then moved it again probably back to where it was. I think this was all me, the four jaw is a bit heavy to use as a gauge The face plate would have been a better choice.

I am sure the taper was "zeroed" right, it was more me looking for it not to be right. After I had a cup of tea and thought about it I was then convinced it was me gauging the taper and not the taper that was wrong.
Like you say if the taper is "zeroed" then it can't really be wrong and there is no need for any adjustment.

DaveH

[DaveH]

I think Greg has made a good point, I have changed my post accordingly.
Greg
Thanks
DaveH

[f350ca]

Dave,
Hope my post didn't come across as questioning your work. I was asking a question. (sometimes the problem with typing on boards, the mystified look on my face should have cleared it up).
I don't cut enough tapers.
Did something similar to what your doing, had to clean up the abused internal tapers on my 3 jaw and collet chuck for the Colchester.
Still haven't mastered measuring the dia, when making taperlock hubs I have to put them in the bore to be sure I got the dia right and have enough room to the shoulder to get them to tighten.
Greg

[stevec]

(04-23-2012, 10:13 AM)f350ca Wrote: Dave,
I don't cut enough tapers.
Greg

I cut plenty! (unfortunately unintentionally)
P.S. DaveH, I still can't find the "dummy" part of your neat project.

[DaveH]

(04-23-2012, 10:13 AM)f350ca Wrote: Dave,
Hope my post didn't come across as questioning your work. I was asking a question.
Greg

Hi Greg,

Not at all, it was a very good and valid question Nothing wrong with asking questions keeps us all on our toes

DaveH

[doubleboost]

Clever idea to use a clock to set the taper on the compound slide
You must dave both the clock and the tool used for cutting the taper dead on centre height
Or the taper will be slightly out
John

[EdK]

(04-23-2012, 03:08 PM)doubleboost Wrote: You must have both the clock and the tool used for cutting the taper dead on centre height
Or the taper will be slightly out
John

Good tip John and it makes perfect sense.

Ed