Walter Tool Catalogue

[ronboult]

Thanks again for the great info Pixman.
Since my post I have been able to obtain an older 50mm F2280 but this time with a 22mm bore that will take a Tormach TTS arbor. Unfortunately this one still takes the smaller ODMT 0504 ZZN inserts.
I think I have to upsize to a 65/75mm model to find one that takes the larger insert. Will keep patiently looking - just hope for one to turn up eventually.

As a side since I now have a second F2280 I can now have an attempt to modify the R8 FMB16 arbor that I bought for the F4080 (with 16mm bore) to have a 3/4 shank instead of R8 so it will fit the Tormach collet.
I have been grappling with the problem of how to mount the arbor in the lathe so that the R8 shank can be turned down to 3/4 but keeping it exactly concentric with the 16mm FM mounting. The R8 shank is bored and threaded so there is no place to mount a centre.
Anybody got any suggestions?

[PixMan]

I suggest you post a photo (or more) of the R8-16mm arbor so we can see it. I'd be inclined to make a 16mm to 22mm sleeve adapter and not alter the arbor.

Can you get a 16mm arbor in native Tormach shank? What does the Tormach spindle adaptation actually look like?

Of course it would take a smaller socket head cap screw than what a true 22mm arbor would take, but it's only a 50mm cutter and should be fine. So a cup shaped sleeve for that would be needed too.

[ronboult]

Hi PixMan
Sorry I have not been able to reply sooner but I have been away and had no pictures to explain my dilemma.

I use Tormach TTS Tooling on my Sieg SX3 Mill which has a R8 spindle. Raising and lowering the head on this mill is painful to say the least and the short shank of TTS tooling make this manageable.

My original purchase of a Walter Facemill was the F4080.B16.050Z0403 you recommended and this has a 16mm bore.

Unfortunately Tormach TTS face mill arbors only come in 1/2" (from Tormach) and the chinese copies only come in 22mm. See pic 1.

   

When I bought my second Water face mill I got a F2280.B22.052Z0403 which has a 22mm bore so I have been able to use a Chinese TTS arbor


However I have been forced to use a R8 arbor on my F4080. Since I now have a second Water face mill that I can use in the interim, I plan to modify the R8 shank FMB16 arbor to turn it into a TTS arbor. If it doesn't work I will just have to buy another R8 FMB16 arbor or sell the cutter.

This will require turning the R8 shank down to 3/4" for about 35mm and parting off at this length. Pic 2 is the R8 FMB 16 arbor that I plan to modify i.e. Turn the R8 shank down to 3/4 parallel.

   

Problem is holding the R8 arbor in the lathe to ensure that the new 3/4" shank and the 16mm cutter mounting shank are turned exactly concentric on a single axis.
Unfortunately the R8 end and 16mm cutter end both have threaded holes so I can't easily turn between centres.

 My ideas so far.

Chuck up a piece of steel  which has a 8mm slot across the face and bore to exactly 16mm (tight fit for 16mm end of arbor) This should ensure that the cutter mount end of the arbor is running concentric with the axis of the spindle. The drive ears on the arbor will engage in the slot across the socket to turn the arbor during cutting

But how do I hold the tailstock end?  The  slot in the R8 shank for the spindle locating pin rules out a fixed steady.
I need ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks
Ron

[ronboult]

Just thought I should post a couple of photos of my Walter face mills.

Pic 1 is the F4080.B16.050.Z04.03 which has a 16mm bore and for which I have to make a new TTS arbor

   

Pic 2 is my later purchase of a Walter F2280.B22.052.Z04.03 which has a 22mm bore and is mounted on a Chinese copy TTS 22mm arbor

   

Ron

[Highpower]

(06-17-2016, 05:41 AM)ronboult Wrote: But how do I hold the tailstock end?  The  slot in the R8 shank for the spindle locating pin rules out a fixed steady.
I need ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks
Ron

Turn a short threaded arbor that screws into the R-8 end and put a center in the end of the arbor?

[PixMan]

I got my hands on a few metric Walter cutters if anyone is interested. Mostly shoulder mills taking the ADMT10T3xx inserts.

[ronboult]

Hi Highpower thanks for the suggestion.
I have considered that option but was concerned that the drawbar threaded hole may be a loose fit and not concentric with the arbor.
If I turn the centred plug between centres and make the thread slightly oversize it might work.

I have no idea of how concentric the two shanks of a face mill arbor should be, but thought it should be in the order of tenths. I expect that such arbors are always ground on the same axis.

[Vinny]

How about putting the skinny end of the R8 in the headstock end - either collet or 4 jaw. Run your live center in the hole in the fat end and check it with a DTI (or DI). You're not going all the way to the end of the R8 so you should be good to go.

[Highpower]

(06-17-2016, 05:56 PM)ronboult Wrote: Hi Highpower thanks for the suggestion.
I have considered that option but was concerned that  the drawbar threaded hole may be a loose fit and not concentric with the arbor.
If I turn the centred plug between centres and make the thread slightly oversize it might work.

I have no idea of how concentric the two shanks of a face mill arbor should be, but thought it should be in the order of tenths. I expect that such arbors are always ground on the same axis.

I was thinking in terms of single pointing the threads to only cut them enough to get a good close fit. Then after the plugs are screwed in, dial in the collet mating surfaces in a 4-jaw and then drill your centers. You could then spin the collet between centers by hand to see if the outer surfaces are running concentric before you make any cuts.

Sounded good in my head anyway....

[Mayhem]

(06-17-2016, 04:25 PM)PixMan Wrote: I got my hands on a few metric Walter cutters if anyone is interested. Mostly shoulder mills taking the ADMT10T3xx inserts.

C'mon Ken - you know we need pictures