ER32 Collet Chuck for Proxxon PD 400

[RobWilson]

(04-16-2012, 11:00 AM)Wongster Wrote: Hi Rob, I like the thumbs up at the end. Can this be performed without the spring loaded rod?

Regards,
Wong

Hi Wong

Its best to have a spring loaded rod ,,,,,,,, not hard to make , just use what ever material you have at hand , just make the point a good sliding fit in the body

Rob

[DaveH]

One of the reasons to have the "centring bar" sprung is one does not have to keep adjusting the tail stock to keep the correct amount of force applied. Makes life easier

One can use just a straight bar - say silver steel (drill rod) 10/12 mm diameter. A point at one end and a centre drilled hole at the other end, suitable to take your dead centre. Remember to keep adjusting it when in use.

Dave

[EdK]

Rob,

If that's one of your poor videos I'd like to see more of them.

Wong,

I've attached plans for a pump center and here is a link to one.

http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/project...pcntr.html

Ed


  centering_tool.pdf (Size: 404.24 KB / Downloads: 7)

[doubleboost]

Hi
Rob
I see you have a clock that is broken as well
John

[Wongster]

Thanks again guys for the tips, videos and plans.

I'll go get some rods. Hope to get them before the weekend so that I can get some work done. Working in the shop after work seems impossible these days.

Rob, you make it looks so easy.

Regards,
Wong

[Mayhem]

(04-16-2012, 09:48 AM)DaveH Wrote: I think the problem Wong has is holding the billet in his 3 jaw chuck, his chuck may not be large enough to hold it, even with the jaws turned around.

DaveH

Oops - sorry I missed that. I guess I am spoiled having a 14" chuck.

[Wongster]

I kind of started work this morning. I said kind of as I didn't make the centering tool shown and advised by the good folks here - lazy me... May end up paying for the laziness.

Anyway, the pics show what I did so far:

Using the centre square, the rough centre was marked out. The square is a little too small for the job.



This is the biggest part ever clamped on the Sherline's table. The table became harder to turn with it on.



The spot drill I bought after reading a thread on Madmodder. Should have used the centre drill for this... I learnt.



Spot drill in use.



Opening up the jaws to just slightly past the OD of the chuck. I really dislike this Proxxon 4 jaw independent chuck. Only the adjustment screw for jaw 3 can be turned smoothly. The rest are very stiff.



Using the live centre to hold the stock against the chuck. The jaws of the chuck were then carefully tightened.



Check out the amount of wobble:





Facing.



The spindle was set to turn at 330 rpm. The depth of cut was conservative but I slowly increased it to 0.2mm when I'm almost certain that the steel piece was not going to fly at me.

[DaveH]

Good start Wong

Nice spotting drill

DaveH

[doubleboost]

Off to a good start
I bet that "skin" was hard
Keep the pictures coming
John

[Wongster]

Thanks guys.

John, the skin was indeed hard. Plus the interrupted cut, I was keeping my fingers crossed hoping that the carbide insert doesn't give way and the stock was held securely enough.

The stock I've on hand is about 18mm short of the plan I downloaded from the minilathe Yahoo! group. The plan calls for length of 2.25" (or 57.15mm). The stock I found is slightly longer than 40mm. The plan has nose of 41.25mm. Mine only drawn as 29mm.

My plan is this, I'm using this piece of stock to practice on. Once I get to the end and understand how things work (the compound angle and all), I'll go get a piece of material the right size. Unless I hit it right the first time and the thinner flange works without problem.

Regards,
Wong