Winchester!

[EdK]

People, let's not go there or I'll have to lock this thread and I don't like having to do that.

Ed

[TomG]

Back on topic. I made up a bracket today to mount a small LED light to the shotgun. It clamps to the magazine tube with a couple of #8 socket head cap screws and cradles the barrel for alignment. I still have some scope rings to make for a rifle, so when those are done, I'll fire up the anodizing bench and run a batch of black.

I'm pretty impressed with the light. It has a lever on the back that can be toggled with the finger of the hand on the forend, one way for momentary and the other for full on. It puts out 300 lumens, so it really lights the place up at night. I may also pick one up for my Glock 30 since it has a rail to hang it on.

Tom

[Highpower]

Sweet. Streamlight puts out some quality products. Great customer service too.

(01-02-2016, 11:11 PM)TomG Wrote: I still have some scope rings to make for a rifle, so when those are done, I'll fire up the anodizing bench and run a batch of black.

Tom

Color me jealous....

[TomG]

I've always been skeptical of cold blue, but having heard a lot of good things about Brownell's Oxpho Blue, I thought I'd give it a try on the 1300. The barrel on this thing was pretty heavily rusted, so it took a bit of elbow grease to get it cleaned up and ready for blue. I chucked it up in the lathe and filed it down as much as I could without removing the stamped lettering, and once the larger pits were cleaned up I switched to some emery cloth to blend all the file marks. Most of them cleaned up pretty well and all the lettering is still all present. Then I polished it all with some ScotchBright to give it a satin finish. Next came a bath in some phosphoric acid to get the the rust out of any remaining pits, followed by a hot water rinse. The Oxpho Blue was applied with a cotton patch, kept wet for a minute or two and wiped dry. Then it was burnished with some fine steel wool. I repeated the application and burnishing two more times and was pleasantly surprised with the result. Compare the pic below with the one I took earlier in the thread to see the difference. I showed it to my son and he thought it was a new barrel. I still need to do the magazine tube, but that, being attached to the receiver will be a bigger job. The new walnut forend and buttstock stock showed up, so I stuck them on as well.

I'm not sure what to do about the receiver. It has a few pretty good nicks in it and the aluminum really makes them stand out. I can'r re-anodize it because the mag tube is permanently attached. Maybe I'll try hammering the nicks down and see if they close up any.


Tom

[dallen]

I have a bottle of the stuff, never had much luck with it, but that's just my experience with it.

[bobm4360]

Tom- After you get the nicks in the aluminum to your satisfaction, try a black Sharpie to cover the bright spots.
Roadracer-Theyre great for skeet!

Regards, Bob

[Highpower]

The Oxpho Blue is all I use any more. One thing I have found though is that you need to keep it well oiled, because it will rust a lot quicker than a hot salts bluing.

I've had great success using Brownells baking lacquer applied with an airbrush for aluminum receivers, trigger guards, etc. A black sharpie works sometimes. Sometimes they dry to a nice dark black, and sometimes they dry to a purple shade.

[TomG]

Now that you mention it Willie, I used a screen ink at the last company I worked for that baked out to what looked a lot like an anodized surface and it was hard as nails. I believe it was made by Nazdar. Have to see if I can find it.

Tom

[Vinny]

As I recall, Tom, Nazdar has an office in Troy. I needed some uv curable ink once and they sent me a sample - about a quart (I only needed a few ml).

[TomG]

It looks like Dick Blick sells the stuff. Maybe a trip to Dearborn is in order, via Miller's Bar for a burger and beer of course.

Tom