BLOHM SIMPLEX SURFACE GRINDER Q's

[aRM]

Hi  Guys
Hope there's somebody familiar with this Machine which we have just acquired.
Unfortunately the GRINDING WHEEL FLANGE has really been butchered, if not massacred. Don't look see pic  !!!  We need to remove and replace this and would like some simpler explanation on the method than the Manual we have, if somebody knows an easier method.  The Grinding Wheel  will require replacement at some time, so we'd rather know now than later.
The other items are the Longitudinal TABLE STOPS which seem to be ceased as it is rather difficult to move them - and we definitely require the Longer Table Travel.  The One on the Left side has the Nut broken at the 4.0mm stem. This has to be removed anyway.  Is there any "special" way that these STOPS have to moved ???
Would appreciate some enlightenment here.
BTW, ours is a SIMPLEX 5 whilst we have seen numerous ads in the States for a SIMPLEX 7 which is the later Model with many advanced features.  Don't know if the machine build will be similar ???
TIA
aRM

[TomG]

That type of trip has a spring loaded button on top to release it. They may be stuck from years of neglect, but should loosen up with some penetrating oil and a little pursuasion.

Regarding the wheel collar; you know it's a left hand thread right?

Tom

[PixMan]

The large fastening nut for the grinding wheel that's got the damaged holes is easily fixed...if you can get it off. As Tom suggests it's important to determine if it's a left or right hand thread before you start wailing on it, most likely left but I've seen opposite too. Once off, you might fill the bad holes but I wouldn't risk warping it. I'd just drill 4 new holes 45º away.

BTW, if you can find a way to grip it, perhaps first get the entire wheel arbor off by removing the socket head cap screw in the center and see what it takes to get it off the spindle taper and then work on getting the wheel off the arbor. remove the socket head cap screw and you should see some means to insert/screw in some type of puller.

[aRM]

(10-25-2015, 08:19 AM)TomG Wrote: That type of trip has a spring loaded button on top to release it. They may be stuck from years of neglect, but should loosen up with some penetrating oil and a little pursuasion.

Regarding the wheel collar; you know it's a left hand thread right?

Tom

Hello there TOM
Thanks for the response
Will try some "gentle persuasion" with those Stops initially as U have suggested. Makes sense with the Years of abuse, more likely.
U are absolutely correct when U say the "Wheel Collar", which the manual refers to as the "threaded Bush" needs be turned to the Left to be screwed In.
Will remember that !!
aRM

[aRM]

(10-25-2015, 12:49 PM)PixMan Wrote: The large fastening nut for the grinding wheel that's got the damaged holes is easily fixed...if you can get it off. As Tom suggests it's important to determine if it's a left or right hand thread before you start wailing on it, most likely left but I've seen opposite too. Once off, you might fill the bad holes but I wouldn't risk warping it. I'd just drill 4 new holes 45º away.

BTW, if you can find a way to grip it, perhaps first get the entire wheel arbor off by removing the socket head cap screw in the center and see what it takes to get it off the spindle taper and then work on getting the wheel off the arbor. remove the socket head cap screw and you should see some means to insert/screw in some type of puller.

Hello there Sir PixMan

Muchas Gracias for the timely response !!

That Large Socket Head Cap screw in the centre has to be firstly turned to the Left to loosen it as the Manual says. U are absolutely correct when U say that it is mounted on a "Spindle Taper" 'cos that's concurred there as well. The "Threaded Bush" immediately surrounding this Hex has to be turned to the RIGHT to unscrew it - after which the Flange and the Grinding Wheel can be easily removed. So U are right on that score as well in warning us to establish which Thread, L or R, these things have.

What we must stress here is, that only after discussing the problem here with U Guys, and U subsequently making Your input without even access to our Manual, has all this indeed made sense to us to give us the pluck and courage to now go ahead, tackle and properly resolve the issue at stake here. That Friend, is an absolute achievement on your part for which we cannot be grateful enough.

Ideally, we would prefer just getting a new Wheel Flange, if they will have it available - or even if "they" will have to make us one. This factory is still going great guns with even more sophisticated similar Grinding machinery in CNC, and one never knows with Providence, as we have experienced these things first hand on numerous occasions - when least expected.

What is heartening indeed is U have given us some hope that all is not lost, with some light at the end of the tunnel. This machine might very well turn out to be a gem as we have been told that it was hardly used at all in the last Five years. Previous to that we do not know. Only when we fire her up will we be able to ascertain her true capability.

Once again, much gracious appreciation.
And take care
aRM