One thing concerns me in picture two. One of the wires connected to the top centre terminal touches the top left terminal. Now I know that it is the insulated part touching but insulation ins't 100% all the time. Plus, throw in a little moisture and...
I would have expected the company to have sent out a service tech to switch out the motor.
I think that wiring diagram in post #2 picture 3 is if you're wiring the motor for one rotating direction only. Once you want to also be able to reverse the motor direction you need to throw the rotary switch wiring into the mix.
I hear ya Ed agree . Btw opened power box verified wire colors of power and directional switch CW CCW. No prob know this thing by heart by now and see the differences . Here is what I suspect my old term block had internal jumpers which is how you get the directional change CW/ CCW.The new terminal block has external jumpers PIC #2 most likely not correct positions or Pos one of the two internal wires for reverse direction is mislabeled. ( I did not touch or change them)
if that dont make sense than look at this for another hour like I have lol.... btw I had a fellow on another forum post pics his motor box wring on same model machine and its totally different . I suspect Bc of term block . Again figuring out the motor color wires are no big deal its the terminal block and the jumper leads that needs to be understood . My guess is the original motor w/ factory installed is wired to a different style terminal block config which has the jumper leads for reverse in a horiz switch .
Quote:I suspect one thing is off Cuz motor works fine in CW However CCW interrupts ( shorts) the circuit
The link bars , as soon as you select CCW the link bar is a dead short .
Your mill has a FWD/REV switch , so you don't need the terminal block link bars , the link bars set the motor rotation direction ,remove them . The switch does the job of the links . Thats the reason for the 4 wires (2 red 2 black ) going to the motor .
Yup"
After viewing dif wiring diagrams on 220 V single phase terminal blocks I came to the conclusion that it was simple stupid . Last night I had isolated the wires from forward to reverse CW CCW . Than Spent some time thinking about what is missing in the scenario . My stumbling block was the new terminal block was pre wired with jumpers. I had (assumed) pictured the old one had internal jumpers leads . Than as I opened the power box and traced the wires from the F/Rev switch it dawned on me that the reverse polarity HAS to be done with the switch not at the terminal block. Am I correct with that statement ?
I kinda knew it but wanted to TEST it first with a continuity test with power off first. The Prob was I had spent some time reading on CNC forum a post that went into detail of fella explaining wiring and and another fella explaining in detail how to test isolating entire circuitry.. Before I lay my head down the jumper issue came to mind but only needed confirmation before I set out to check switch and ask Q's isolation the proper circuity. Than I looked at the way the circuit flowed many times at the terminal block knowing everything else and those dang jumper leads made no sense . Lota Fun solving the puzzle when ya have 2 extra parts that dont belong ayy?
Long story short She's up running fine now . However I do have one Question still unanswered . Why does the diagram on the new power box show Caps wired across W2 and V2 and W1 and W2 when in actuality they are not in those positions .. Is that correct ? Those are 2 different options WITHOUT a Forward and reverse switch in mind ?
Thanks for all those who lent a hand and those who guessed thanks for your 2 bits of extra shenanigans as well it was fun and a learning experience . Gota laugh at our assumptions and ask the right Q's
ok shes running im gona ask this again and for the 2nd time on another forum . I want to drain the original gear box oil . The manual is NOT clear . My Q is Mobil DTE heavy/Med same as 80W90 auto gear oil? As I want to purchase the gear oil and change it before using my new mill thanks.
I use Mobil DTE Heavy/Medium in my RF-45 clone mill. That's what the manufacturer recommends. I'd stick with what the manual for your mill says to use.
Gota laugh at our assumptions and ask the right Q's 
Kenny , glad to hear you have the mill up and running, I raise my glass to the team . 