Cantek 1440, Birmingham, Wilton CT 1440, and others Rebuild

[turbo711]

Hello Johnnyc14. I priced it out regular post and it seems to be around $18 each way to send the quill.

[Mayhem]

(07-17-2015, 09:03 AM)turbo711 Wrote: Hello Dallen. Yes, they are 24V I think. The transformer indicates 24V output. The link(s) would be welcomed. Here is a pic from Johnnyc14 that shows how it supposed to look:



I might be interested in the quill, but I don't want to put much money in this tailstock due to it's condition. I was thinking of milling the slot wider and making a new pin. My mill in a homemade cnc router though and it doesn't like steel too much...

Mark

Whilst I have always enjoyed working on motor control circuitry and electrical circuits in general, I must admit that the US system does confuse me at times, which is why I generally chime in here when it comes to details.  I would hate to be responsible for someone getting a shock
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I'm unsure why you would use low voltage coils on your contactors?  Is it because you have (if I understand correctly) more than one single phase supply option?  Here things are pretty simple: 240V single phase or 415V three phase. As such, when wiring three phase contactors, I will choose 440V coils and 120V coils when using single phase.  From my point of view it is simpler and less expensive.

Here is the link to my upgrade on my Kondia mill.

[turbo711]

Hello Dallen. I live in a residential area and the options are 120v and 240v single phase. The 3 phase option would require a city electrical truck to come out and install more equipment at a high cost. In Canada, 3 phase wiring is mostly for industrial applications and zoning. The lathe wiring was already set up for 240v single and I am using 24 volt coils because that is what is there already. The transformer beside the contactors outputs 24v for the coils. Your lucky to have the 3 phase option down there!

Mark

[dallen]

(07-21-2015, 07:19 AM)turbo711 Wrote: Hello Dallen. I live in a residential area and the options are 120v and 240v single phase. The 3 phase option would require a city electrical truck to come out and install more equipment at a high cost. In Canada, 3 phase wiring is mostly for industrial applications and zoning. The lathe wiring was already set up for 240v single and I am using 24 volt coils because that is what is there already. The transformer beside the contactors outputs 24v for the coils. Your lucky to have the 3 phase option down there!

Mark

I think Mayhem was the one asking why the 24 volt coils.

Not all things are done the same way in every country. The control wiring that we used where I used to work was all 110 volt, with low voltage DC used for signals to and from some limits like slidewires.

Its the way the Chinese wired it, nothing says that it can't be changed to use 110 volt control voltage, but its also a safety with the wires being ran in close proximity to the gears in the headstock and leadscrews.

[johnnyc14]

The reason for using low voltage controls for the contactor is for safety reasons. The 24 volt coils controls the opening and closing of the high voltage contacts. That means the conductors at the actual switches the operator touches only carry low voltage and the chance of shock is minimal.

[Mayhem]

I figured that would be the case but just wanted to make sure. I've also used optocouplers and triacs to switch mains voltage but given the control gear used on industrial stuff here I don't see the need.

Like Dave said - different things in different countries and it is always interesting to see the different 'norms'

[turbo711]

Sorry Dallen, you are correct, the post was for Mayhem. I'm losing it..... I'm losing it.....! Maybe too much varsol.

Mark

[turbo711]

Well after realizing I need to gears for the headstock, I checked Grizzly again, and I can't get them there. This prompted me to go on another search, that led me to Ackhurst in Delta, BC. This is a Cantek dealer that deals with mainly wood machines, but also some metal machines as well. A gentleman named Fred was very helpful and priced out the gears for me. This led me to rethink my order from Grizzly where I wasn't 100% of the part fitment, so I called and cancelled that order. I then added the parts to the Ackhurst order. It should take around 3-3 weeks to arrive.

On another note, I thought I would change the bearings on the motor, because the rotation was a little rough. So I pulled it apart:



There is a rivet missing on the centrifugal start...



But the biggest issue, was that the pulley was not concentric (probably out 1/4"), even though the shaft appears to be reasonably so. This would cause a vibration that would never go away. I decided to remove it, but it was easier said than done. Another roll pin that I don't even know how they installed. I ended up cutting off the pulley and the shaft underneath appears like a different pulley was installed at some point. I'll have to think about this one a bit. Maybe weld the hole and turn down the shaft again.



The windings after cleaning as best I could:



I can possibly use this, after I figure out how to wire it and contend with a bent toolpost slide screw. I picked this up from kijiji for $500 with a lot of tooling, but the bed ways are worn. This is the size of lathe I really wanted, but I couldn't pass up the $160 for the CT-1440. I like the old school cabinet.



I bound to get some lathe working here, sooner or later .
That's all for now,

Take Care
Mark

[Roadracer_Al]

After you get the Birmingham up and running, you can disassemble the worn out one and have the bed surface ground -- it's not as expensive as one would imagine.

[turbo711]

How much do you think that would be Roadracer-Al? Ballpark?
Mark