Elliott Concord 460 lathe

[Dr Stan]

Nice score. 

[f350ca]

My lathe uses a D8 which I assume is a no 8 but it has 6 pins.
That Morse taper adaptor they show is a monster. Only tried it once. Its easier to chuck a shaft and point it to 60 degree and use that as the headstock centre.
Maybe the half nuts on yours will be a little more user friendly than mine, the ones on mine are so big they don't shift easily, or quickly enough to work against a shoulder. If yours has a brake that engages when the clutch is released its easier to just stop the spindle and run it back with the reverse clutch and leave the half nuts alone.
You'll need the crane, those chucks are well over a 100 pounds.
How small does the 4 jaw close on? I need to find a 8 inch or so, the big one only closes to 1 inch.

[DaveH]

Congrats Darren,
A super duper lathe - very nice  
 
DaveH

[PixMan]

To be a bit anal Greg, yours is a D1-8 spindle. Mine is a D1-6. I have no idea where the nomenclature originated, but these "cam-lock" spindles are nice because they're immune to spindle reversal the way a threaded spindle isn't. Here's a reference for you:

http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Lath...Mount.html

Darren's machine has a half nut and he tested it to work, but he doesn't need to engage it but ONCE for most threads. Once engaged he can use the dog clutch lever for threading passes. Very cool! I've used such machines before and there's no need to stop the spindle. When you get to a shoulder you disengage the dog clutch and it stops carriage travel. Retract the tool, wind the carriage back by hand, advance the tool, click the dog clutch lever back in anywhere/anytime, lather, rinse, repeat.

As for the MT5 tailstock taper, it's just a matter of getting a couple of reducing sleeves to start with. MT to MT4 and MT5 to MT3 would be a good start. Later, add a robust MT5 taper live center. The crane for changing chucks is a Godsend. My 10" 3-jaw is manageable by hand, the 12" 4-jaw independent is right at the limit of what I can safely lift for now, that will change as I age.

He's got some work to do to get the taper attachment complete and working, but it should be doable. That's one of the few things I don't have for my lathe and wish I did.

[Roadracer_Al]

What a lovely beast!

I dare say that as long as you're not going to take up model engineering, that ought to serve you well.

Great deal, hopefully the lead screw fix will be as simple as a sheared drive pin.

I've never run a lathe with a dog clutch, but it sure sounds like it's a more efficient way to thread.

a

[f350ca]

Your not being anal at all Ken. I did a quick search and thought it was a 4 pin bayonet, but see now it uses 4 studs on the back of the chuck and a drive pin. Thanks
Don't understand the dog clutch concept. My Hardinge uses one but its built into the headstock so it stays in sync off the spindle. If the half nuts are engaged how can you move the carriage.

[PixMan]

(05-16-2015, 04:55 PM)f350ca Wrote: Your not being anal at all Ken. I did a quick search and thought it was a 4 pin bayonet, but see now it uses 4 studs on the back of the chuck and a drive pin. Thanks
Don't understand the dog clutch concept. My Hardinge uses one but its built into the headstock so it stays in sync off the spindle. If the half nuts are engaged how can you move the carriage.

You're right. I think with that one there's some kind of reversal. Darren had sent me a link to download the manual, so I'll read up and post what the book says.

[Mayhem]

Greg - my current lathe has a similar sized spindle bore and no morse taper attachment, so if I ever needed to turn between centres, I would have to turn one up in the chuck and use that.

My understanding of the dog clutch is that is has a single tooth, so it can only ever engage in the one position, thus maintaining the relationship between the spindle and the leadscrew. The lever has Fwd/N/Rev, so slipping it into reverse moves the carriage back to the starting point.

The spindle brake is applied whenever the control lever is placed in the centre (off) position. Currently it isn't braking so that will either mean that the clutch needs adjustment or is shot. Adjustment sounds simple enough and the instructions are on a plate on the rear cover and also in the manual. If shot, my understanding is that you simply get new plates laser cut.

I'm unsure as to the minimum griping diameter of the four-jaw chuck. I have a square ER32 collet block, so anything under 20mm I could put into a collett and then into the chuck.

[f350ca]

If it has reverse it sounds like the arrangement on the Hardinge. A joy to thread with.
On mine there is a brake separate from the clutches which is adjustable. Mine could do with a tuning, its getting a little slow to stop. If the clutches and brake are in an oil bath doubt they'd ever totally wear out.

[Vinny]

Darren that thing is a beast! It makes my Logan look like a mini-lathe!