03-21-2015, 08:28 AM
I had to use rags and a battery charger to remove a light coat of rust from mine. A 3' length of angle iron for an anode fit both the base and the table ways, if you decide to go there. The picture makes them look needing.
There's a spare 3 phase motor as an RPC running my planer. Runs the shaper too. Basically the motors are all wired in parallel. 240 V single phase applied to two of the legs, a pony motor gets things rolling. Start the pony first, then switch on power to the primary and the "RPC" is ready. Power to the planer and away she goes.
There's a vid on youtube where someone stuffed his VFD and motor under the planer and drove it directly. There's no big belt. The downside is that his rapid reverse is no more. http://youtube.com/v/p_HPrY7IJ4E
Shapers and planers. Fine feed for roughing, coarse feed for finishing. Just opposite of everything else. It's in the tooling. The finisher is more like a chisel, making a wide (.125" - .250") (but very thin, .002" - .010") chip. I use a small magnet under the clapper to hold it out a bit (to create some clearance) and with a strip of emery slightly pinched between the tool and the work, an edge can be honed perfectly parallel to the work. It'll put a glass smooth finish down, with some cooperation from the material.
Pardon my rambling. Stopping now.
There's a spare 3 phase motor as an RPC running my planer. Runs the shaper too. Basically the motors are all wired in parallel. 240 V single phase applied to two of the legs, a pony motor gets things rolling. Start the pony first, then switch on power to the primary and the "RPC" is ready. Power to the planer and away she goes.
There's a vid on youtube where someone stuffed his VFD and motor under the planer and drove it directly. There's no big belt. The downside is that his rapid reverse is no more. http://youtube.com/v/p_HPrY7IJ4E
Shapers and planers. Fine feed for roughing, coarse feed for finishing. Just opposite of everything else. It's in the tooling. The finisher is more like a chisel, making a wide (.125" - .250") (but very thin, .002" - .010") chip. I use a small magnet under the clapper to hold it out a bit (to create some clearance) and with a strip of emery slightly pinched between the tool and the work, an edge can be honed perfectly parallel to the work. It'll put a glass smooth finish down, with some cooperation from the material.
Pardon my rambling. Stopping now.