Checking My Nuts
#91
Do you guys use any special program? Or just make a spreadsheet?
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#92
There is a dedicated tool log that I developed in Access in the downloads section. For consumables, I just use Excel.
Hunting American dentists since 2015.
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#93
(03-14-2015, 10:48 PM)PixMan Wrote: Ed,

I ran the TTGen software and got that a 1"-10ACME is a 1.919º helix angle, so you'd be able to use one of the internal threading bars they and Carmex offer, as long as it has interchangeable anvils and you substitute the standard YI-2 for a YI-3. I have one of those, I just have to run over to the shop tomorrow to see if I have the 3/4" bar with the anvils.

I can't remember every tool I've stocked, and the tooling database that I know will be mentioned now is on my home PC that's 7.5 miles from my shop so I have to depend upon a fading memory for these things for now.

You would have to get the insert, about $17.76 for one from KBC Tool.

Thanks for the information Ken. I think I'll just grind HSS bits for this since I will, hopefully, only need to make a couple of nuts. Not worth the money for that. I appreciate the offer though.

Ed
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#94
Looks like that's the way to go because I checked my threading tools and don't have the 3/4" one with the anvil.

I do have left and right of both the next size up (1") and next size down (5/8"), plus a 3/8" which takes 11IR inserts, and now the 3/4" one that takes 22IR inserts.

Oh well.
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#95
I tackled the acme nut this afternoon and it turned out reasonably well. I had to go past the depth that a 10TPI Acme thread is supposed to be but there's no reason to believe the lead screw is made to the spec. I need to take a close look at the thread and how it fits to be sure I didn't screw something up. It's a light, snug turning fit. The bronze is supposed to show up tomorrow. Any tips on threading bronze, other than pray?  Smile

Ed

         
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#96
(03-15-2015, 02:24 PM)PixMan Wrote: Looks like that's the way to go because I checked my threading tools and don't have the 3/4" one with the anvil.

I do have left and right of both the next size up (1") and next size down (5/8"), plus a 3/8" which takes 11IR inserts, and now the 3/4" one that takes 22IR inserts.

Oh well.

Thanks for checking Ken. My tool post won't take a 3/4" tool, 5/8" is the maximum.
I'm assuming I can't use my 16ER tool to cut an external left hand thread, correct? I'd need a 16EL I'm guessing.

Ed
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#97
You definitely can use it, you would just need to use the RH insert and change the anvil to a YE-3N (in Vardex designation) or AE-1.5N (in Carmex designaton.)

I have one them and would send it to you.

No need to add another toolholder and start buying left hand inserts if you don't need to. I would look at getting a set of anvils though, they are very useful for nailing down beautiful threads. Overlooking the match of a thread's helix angle to the "tilt" of the insert causes deformed threads, chatter, and failed inserts just to name a few problems.
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Thanks given by: EdK
#98
Looks terrific Ed, think you've nailed it. Same cutter and method should work on its bronze cousin.
This is why we have all these tools, so we can fix them.
Hope you didn't get the lathe dirty though.
Free advice is worth exactly what you payed for it.
Greg
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#99
Not too dirty Greg, but I will clean it off before I start on the bronze version.

Ed
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You will find the tool acts a bit different in bronze than it does in aluminum. The aluminum doesn't suck a tool in, and you have to work at it to get tool chatter.

Bronze loves to eat tools by "hogging in" and I'm not sure why it makes an otherwise perfectly good tool chatter. The most curious thing is that sometimes it does it, most times it won't and you don't get to choose.

I'm hoping for you that it just goes according to plan. Bronze can be expensive as hell. What are you using, a 660 bronze or Oiliite sintered bronze?
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