Good quality chisels and punches

[Mayhem]

I've come to the realization that the no-name chisels that I have are probably far softer than anything I need to hit with them.  One of the pin punches bent when driving out a pin and another snapped...

I don't often need the use of a chisel but when I do I want one that doesn't bugger the tip with the first blow.  Pin punches, I use a lot more, especially given the mill rebuild.  

I've held off buying a set, as I've heard others complain that some of the better known brands are also problematic.  So, I ask you, do you have any suggestion for a decent quality set that won't cost the earth? 

[PixMan]

Over here we have a few good makers that still manufacture domestically with high quality steels, proper heat treat and tempering (very important) and good fit & finish.

One of them is right here in Massachusetts and the name, curiously enough, will ring with you....Mayhew for Mayhem!

http://www.mayhew.com/

Look through their on-line catalog. I've never seen such an array of choices with different levels of toughness, features, applications and choices of sets. You can get exactly what you want, nothing more or less. My local dealer here is Kaufman Company, I can get you "cost plus 10%" pricing if interested.

[terrywerm]

I used to have a lot of trouble with pin punches until an old timer taught me something that I did not know: You never start to loosen a pin using a pin punch. Use a drive punch (also called a starting punch) to first loosen the pin, then drive it out with a pin punch. So what is a 'drive punch'?  It looks something like a lineup punch, but is shorter and not as slender. It tapers down to the face which is flat. The idea is to use the drive punch to start the pin moving until the punch starts to contact the sides of the hole. From there a pin punch is used to finish the removal of the pin.


  Punches.jpg (Size: 15.62 KB / Downloads: 179)

As for cold chisels, money is well spent when you purchase good ones. I have already re-hardened and re-tempered some of my cheaper chisels with limited success. Too many times the quality of the steel itself is a big part of the problem and they will not harden properly. Up to this point my best cold chisels are my old Craftsman chisels that I bought 35 years ago. I do also have one large cold chisel from General that seems to do very well. I do have one no-name cold chisel that holds up very well; it is the one that I made from drill rod way back in high school shop class. I still have the center punch that I made then too, but I reground it into a prick punch many years ago.

[PixMan]

FWIW, I have visited the Mayhew Company and learned they are an OEM supplier to a great many other name bands. I cannot divulge that information, but can tell you that the Sears Craftsman and General tools are no longer on that list.

Mayhew uses domestically sourced S2 and S7 high shock tool steels for their striking tools. That alone makes a HUGE difference in performance.

[Dr Stan]

Amen to what everyone else has said.  You want quality you pay for quality.

My favorite center punch started life as an Acme tap.  Some one broke it at a former employer and I ended up with it.  The shape was ground on a T&C grinder leaving some of the flutes.  Since it is the end of the tap the shank and square are not as hard as the tip and stand up to the impact of a hammer.

Given your location I doubt if any US made (not branded) punches and chisels are available.  However, you should be able to locate quality Japanese products and possibly ones from Germany.  If by chance you run across some from Eastern Europe they too will probably be of good or better quality.  Of course avoid Chinese or Indian punches and chisels.

For the center punch, pin punches, and similar shapes you could make them from appropriate drill rod.  You'll just have to heat treat them properly.

Chisels on the other hand should be forged instead of machined.  Given hand forging is a "black art" unless you have considerable forging experience or have a mate who has you'll be better off purchasing them.

[Highpower]

(02-08-2015, 08:47 AM)terrywerm Wrote: I used to have a lot of trouble with pin punches until an old timer taught me something that I did not know: You never start to loosen a pin using a pin punch.

Yes...  x 1000 

Use a starter punch first to break the bond and get the pin to move, then finish driving it out with the longer pin punch.
The smaller the pin (and punch), the more important this becomes because they bend and break so much more easily.

[PixMan]

I noticed in the Mayhew catalog that they have on Page 5.5 the "solid punch" which appears to be the ones we are calling starter punch or pilot punch. The sets shown on page 10.2 seem to have both, so either the "24 piece Punch & Chisel Set" or the "24 piece Mechanic's Bench Set" would be ideal.

Shall I get pricing on one of them?

[Mayhem]

Thanks Ken - I've sent you an email

Terry/Willie - I had no idea about the starting/solid punch but will be using them first from now on.

[Highpower]

Many years ago I had no idea about them either Darren. 

You learn pretty quick though when you have a long pin punch bounce off of a stuck pin, or have the punch slide off to the side due to a glancing hammer blow - and proceed to scar the expensive finish on the part you are trying to remove the pin from. 
The shorter, fatter punch gives you much better control of the tip. I have found several great starter punches hidden inside pieces of brass hex stock.   

You can wail away on it if you have to for stubborn pins, and if it gets deformed, so what? You have a lathe to 'sharpen' it right? The cup tipped punch on the right is for pins with rounded ends found on many firearms. They prevent flattening the rounded end of the pin with a flat tipped punch and ruining the look of the piece.

[how'sitwork?]

If you want cup tipped( as above from Willie- look for nail countersink punches. They come in a variety of sizes ( tip size) and are well tempered. Modern ones even come colour codes for size !

I like "Eclipse" from Neill tools but others do them- Just a thought but one could use drill rod thro the centre then put a brass hexagon end on them for weight and to make gripping easier but that maybe just complicating things for no real benefit.